We have a area in our Dining Room Ceiling that has devolped a loose sagging section approximate 8 sq.ft. dia. My question is how can we spray some type of adhedsive up into this area. There is an openning over apprimately 1/8 inch to shoot through. We would not want to remove or replace to complete texured ceiling.This is in a old house with very heavy texureing. Need a product to work.
2006-08-26 00:59:29 · 6 answers · asked by mantywoc 1 in Home & Garden ➔ Maintenance & Repairs
that's wishful thinking. the fix may be constructing two rigs of 2x4's shaped like the capital letter I. they will need to be the same height as the correct ceiling height(minus an inch). prop up the ceiling in two spots of the sag.shim the rigs up if needed. now for the fix.Locate where the studs are in the ceiling behind the sag, using plaster washers and long drywall screws screw the ceiling back into place every 6inches. patch cracks and over the top of the screws. 26 years of experience as a professional has taught me this. the glue idea sounds like an easy fix...but I'd rather bet on winning the lottery 10 times over!
2006-08-26 01:18:19 · answer #1 · answered by steve b 5 · 2⤊ 0⤋
Sorry, it has to come down and be put back, correctly. Glues won't work, because inside is all loose plaster. All glue would do is make a worse mess. Plus, the plaster is heavy. If it's not secured, it will come down on its own, sooner or later. One question I have is relating to the size of the area. Your question calls it "8 sq. ft. dia." A squre foot is a unit of area, or surface. It is calculated, in a rectangular area, by multiplying length times width. Therefore, a 2' x 4' patch is 8 sq. ft. Dia(meter) is the distance across a circle, through it's center. Either way, youv'e got a problem.
The patch is something you can do, without costing a bunch. Move furniture out of the way and put a decent, heavy tarp down, to contain the mess. Using a hammer, a utility knife, and a flat pry bar, remove the loose area and clean the edges, leaving them straight. Pull all loose material down in the area to be patched and be sure to take out any exposed nails or screws.
Looking at the edges of the remaining ceiling, measure the ceiling's thickness. You'll need to buy a 4'X8' sheet of a type of sheetrock called "blueboard." Buy a sheet that is close to what your ceiling's thickness is, leaving room for a plaster topcoat. This material can be skim-coated with plaster. There are two ways to fasten the patch. The first is to size the hole, so that the edges are in the middle of the ceiling joists, giving you something to screw into. For smaller areas, or where the joists run the other direction, cut a strip of blueboard off the excess and place it in the hole, parallel to the edge, and with the edge running down its center. If the patch spans one or more joists, mark their positions in pencil, on the existing ceiling, at both sides of the patch.
With one hand reaching into the hole, push down on the strip, while driving a screw up through the ceiling into it. Do this every 6" along the strip and repeat on all 4 sides. Next, take the patch that you've cut to fit, hold it up and screw every 6" all around. Once the patch has been secured around the edges, snap a chalk line to mark joist positions and screw into them, also every 6".
Matching the texture ceiling is not hard. You want to practice, first. Take another extra chunck of the blueboard and trowel on some plaster. I like the powder, that you mix with water, because you can play with the consistency. Pre-mixed or patching plaster will also work. Once you have a nice layer of plaster down,try different texturing techniques. Lightly press a wet sponge into the wet surface and pull it back. It will pull the plaster into little peaks. Try swirling it with the trowel. Once you can approximate the texture, do it for real, overlapping onto the original ceiling. You want to leave irregular edges, as this will help conceal the patch.
After it's good and dry, prime and paint the whole ceiling. Once the color difference is gone, nobody will see the patch. This really isn't a hard project, especially, if you can get along without using the room for a week. That way, you can take your time, do a litlle bit after work, each day, and come away with a job well done. Good luck
2006-08-26 02:11:43 · answer #2 · answered by Leo L 7 · 0⤊ 0⤋
If you are worried about trying to retexture the ceiling to it's original status after replacing, it is fairly simple. If your ceiling is sagging, you may have water damage. It is plaster and lathe that is probably coming undone, but you need to knock out the area up to 2 joists apart, attach a block on either side in between the joists, and hang new drywall.
2006-08-26 01:54:51 · answer #3 · answered by Focused 3 · 0⤊ 0⤋
Sorry but you have to remove it. That is a major sag and it is only going to get worse and eventually fall. The others that said to replace it are correct. This isn't a small problem.
2006-08-26 05:54:15 · answer #4 · answered by Jerry Dee 3 · 0⤊ 0⤋
If it is an old house, that could be loose plaster. In that case, you probably will need to remove it and reapply plaster.
2006-08-26 01:07:42 · answer #5 · answered by just browsin 6 · 0⤊ 0⤋
best thing to do is tear it out and start from scratch if not youll be chasing rabbits
2006-08-26 01:14:33 · answer #6 · answered by plumber local union 102 3 · 0⤊ 0⤋