setting up 27'round fixed wall pool.have area leveled and sand in. have put blockes and track around. what now

Question

need to know how to put in liner and walls so walls wont fall down when putting in overlap liner.

Answer 1

You need to pick your day and your helpers. Don't try putting up a wall, no matter how many hands you have or bracing, unless it's calm out. It's a disater waiting to happen.
The more people the merrier, but it can be done on a calm day , with 3 people. . Now your prep is done, figure out where the filter equipment is going to go. The wall is usually rolled with the skimmer cut out within the first few feet. That's where your equipment will be. Once you've figured that out, that's where you will start unrolling the wall, on it's end (make sure you have it right side up). Unroll 2 feet and put in track, unroll 2 feet and put in track. Have a helper behind you to put on the small top tubes at this time. If they stay behind you and place the tubes as you move and put into track, the wall will be fairly stable. Have a pal hold onto that start end tho, never know if a wind will come up. Move methodically and slowly. Adding pals to recent sections around the pool wall. Every 8 feet will be more than enough. When you get to the end, likely it won't match. That's why nothing is pagged to anything at this point, you'll have to do a little wiggle and sometimes move a large section around to get it to fit. Remember, the track must fit the wall, it you can do something about, the wall is the wall, it's a fixed length you can't do anything about. Do all moves a bit at a time, just one person, the rest still holding their section of wall. The guy that stood there holding the first bit of wall has the job of lining up the bolt holes. Give him a screw driver to put into the first correct holes that match up, to hold that position Lightly bolt it ( heads inside pool) and continue wiggling and using that screw driver to help pry the rest to match up. When most of the bolt holes are done ( for sure top and as far down as you can reach) start moving that round upper track around so's it joins under the top caps. Install the caps (don't screw the caps on yet) and uprights( these you can screw).Check for level at each cap as you go. When done, you can jump in the pool at an upright that you've put a top rail on each side and fastened, carefully (on a curve section in an oval). Finnish putting the bolts in the wall and duct tape over them. Dampen the sand and trowel it out smooth and level, a little cove at the wall is a nice touch. Jump out at an upright. That last little bit, you'll have to smooth out with a fine broom from outside the pool. Remove the caps and the two rails you installed, have your plastic strips spread around the pool and ready. The skimmer may need to be fastened at this time. It depends on what type it is. One type needs to be fastened directly to the wall now, minus the face plate, the other later, when the pool is filling. Consult your documentation that came with the skimmer. Liner time. Two ways to do this, depending on the number of hands you have.If you have plenty of help, keep everything sharp a hunderd yards away. Lift it up over the top of the wall, trying not to let it touch any part of the pool and walk it out. Don't drag it on that nice bottom you just did. Move it around to fit and use those plastic strips to tack the liner in place.
If there's only 3 of you, temporarily fasten your top rails in place. This will hold the walls steady. Still take care not to let the liner get pulled on the rails, it may catch a corner. Have someone there to lift it over. Having few hands, will, unfortunately mean, that liner will get dragged across that smooth bottom, causing some impressions. It can't be avoided that's why it's best to have as many people as you can muster, for this.
Someone in socks has to jump in and kick the liner gently into the wall to get rid of wrinkles that you couldn't pull out, from outside the pool. Don't worry about small packing creases, these will be fine when the water gets in. Stay near the wall and tread lightly. If the sand is still damp, you won't get many footprints, if any. Start a shop vac up (big one preferable) and stick it in through the return hole ponted down, about a foot, between the liner and the wall. Duct tape around the hose to make a good seal and have someone hold the liner against the wall at the skimmer, to seal there as well. Look for wrinkes and move them out to the walls, adjusting the liner up the wall, if needed as the shop vac pulls the liner taught. If you're happy with the result, put on and fasten all your top rails, checking the wall here and there for vertical. In the case of an oval, either shim or tap down your butress's. Fasten your bottom plates to your stones if you wish. They won't be going anywhere, but it's a nice touch. If everything looks good start filling. when there's 2 inches in the pool, jump in and do another wrinkle hunt. The weight of the water pressing down, will stop any footprints, if you tread carefully. If you find any bothersome ones, sometimes a kettle of boiling water, applied right at the wrinkle will make it pliable to move out. Continue to fill the pool. Get you filter equipment set up. When the pool is about half way filled, you can remove the shop vac. Install the skimmer and returns, just before the water level reaches them. That way there's less stress as the liner moves a bit during the last part of the fill. For the return, just cut an X inside the wall hole and push the fitting through, trim the excess vinyl on the outside of the threads, install the nut to snug plus 1/4 turn. The skimmer is next. You may have already installed the skimmer body, if not, and it's the type that's a fasten through face plate/wall/skimmer, do it now. Probe for the holes carefully. You'll feel them through the vinyl. Fasten the faceplate and gasket through the wall to the skimmer. When done, and everything is peachy, cut out the vinyl on the inside of the skimmer face plate. Hook up all your plumbing before the pool gets up . I suggest putting a ball valve in both lines before the equipment, to enable you to isolate the filter and pump equipment from the pool. It will also keep your feet dryer, when cleaning out the pump basket, that pool will want to drain out there and can sometimes make putting the pump lid back on difficult. That's it,

Answer 2

Once the track is in you will have to put up the wall. This is the hardest part, you will need at least two other people to help with this. I just put one up and I am in good shape, but I could not have done without help. Like the REV says get stakes and string and clothes pins, two guys uncoil the wall and insert into track one guy goes behind and puts clothes pins on top of wall and ties off string to stakes. This will hold wall while you put column supports up on the outside of wall. After you get supports up the wall will hold itself up back fill sand around wall, put in liner and put top track on. *****make sure you do not cut opening for skimmer or return before you get the pool about halfway full as the liner will stretch with the weight of the water and you can rip the liner***** Once the liner is in fill with about 2-3 inches of water and jump in push liner tight around the edge to get out wrinkles and then keep filling. Hope this helps enjoy your pool.

Answer 3

I've never done an above ground pool, but I have at least one thought.

Without actually having a dozen people in the pool as you line and fill it, you might invest in some rope and stakes? Tie off sections of the rope to each verticle brace, stake them out in the circumferance of the pool, and add the liners, etc.

Rev. Steven

As you begin filling you will likely need people in the pool to push out creases, wrinkles, fols, etc.