I have a 1993 pontiac sunbird that I just changed the motor in. It is a 3.1 liter engine. Need Help!?

Question

When the car has been runnung for awhile and I go to shift into a gear it cuts off...any answers?? But when you first start it up it is fine. The whole engine jerks when it cuts off.

Answer 1

If it idles fine in Park & Neutral, then the answer is quite simple. The torque converter cluch solenoid is no good. You need to get it replaced. The 3 spd. transmissions (TH125C) were notorious for this problem. I've fixed hundreds with the same problem !!!

Answer 2

These problems over the internet--sheesh. Engines like yours stop if they lose iginition (i.e. the sparks stop sparking or spark out of order) or if they lose fuel (i.e. the fuel pump shuts off, the fuel injection signals stop or are out of order.) Your engine is experiencing one or all of these problems. If a sensor is not working, or working intermittently, it can cause the computer to hiccup and the whole darn thing will just stop.

Any trouble codes? This is a pre-OBDII car, so not all info from the computer is necessarily allowed. At sears they sell a data module (data capture) for about $99 (carchip) that plugs into the OBDII port in new cars or the service port in older cars. The 1993 GM has a standard interface which you need the older carchip version. It will record data. Plug it into the port, and just drive. When it conks out, it will tell you the status of the fuel injection, iginition, temp., etc. This data will help pinpoint the problems. They have the carchip at sears. Even if you don't know what the data means, a good mechanic will. It is a cheap enough tool to record your problem and hopefully get an answer fast.

If the old engine was not displaying these symptoms it is most likely a wiring problem or sensor failure in the new setup. Stupid things like chafing wires or exposed insulation inside the wiring harness that may have been disturbed by the installation could be the culprit. Also, if the wires were not routed EXACTLY like they were by the factory, heat can melt a wire or two inside an inaccessible location and cause a major headache. Sorry to bear the bad news. But this won't be a necesarily obvious problem.

Answer 3

flow to aspects save get CHILTONS guide on your automobile. ascertain your situation is in e book. Chiltons, different books not almost as good. community library would have e book. best situation is ,usually, locate the right bolts to get rid of. not too huge a chore extremely. be particular all previous gasket textile is removed from the engine the position the recent pump wiil seal. do not turn the water pump shaft on the recent pump any more effective than mandatory, they have a mechanical seal which will be damaged. probably a 4 hour interest for the golf eco-friendly. If this is mandatory to pull radiator the e book will allow you to realize, which could upload a pair hours.

Answer 4

Sounds like the engine can't handle the load when put into gear. You may need a good tune-up if it runs week after heating up or have to raise the idle some by adjusting the throttle.

Answer 5

That sounds like a problem with the transmission. The sensor in the transmission doesn't know you're at idle/stopped so it trys to make you go...like popping the clutch. Replace the sensor in the transmission.

Answer 6

sounds like there might be some sort of governer in the engine that the computer is telling to turn on, if you changed the engine from a smaller one to a bigger one, you need to change the computer as well. otherwise you will get alot of this nonsense.

Answer 7

trannyman is correct if it's a 125C trans.

To prove it, while the engine is cold...and doesn't cut out...unplug the connector on the transmission. If that's the problem, it won't cut out with it unplugged.

Answer 8

Check the idle? Beyond that I would recommend having it scanned for trouble codes.

Answer 9

Listen to trannyman, he is right.