You need to have the basic plumbing ability...
Your first need will have to be, to route the fittings. Make a map of where you want to go on paper, (easiest to remember). Take a tape measure and see how long of a "run" you are going to need. How many elbows, (for turns), sleeves, (for joining pipes), and a "T" (going from your main gas line to your fire place), shut off valve, (I perfer two, one at the gas line after the "T" and one at the fire place), union, (for joining pipes and being able to take them apart again, instead of starting from the end or beginning).
Make sure you get some furnace strapping if your going to connect it to the floor joists, and some roofing nails, (This is cheaper usually, than buying all those expesive hangers they try to sell you, and works fine).
Get "approved" doping for the ends of the theads of the pipe...(see what it is in your locations, as different places have different regulations, if in doubt, ask the plumbing supply store).
You need to be able to shut the gas off at the meter. (take a pipe wrench or large crescent wrench and do this).
Then, turn all the gas on in the house, (stove will do, until it all 'burns off'...
Now, (we ARE assuming that you have a straight shot to your fireplace, or, have access tp the "pit" so you can do this, the muscle work is up to you, whether its digging a trench or putting the piping under the floor joists). locate where you want to "cut" into the pipe, (make this the "largest section of 1" or more, so you wont "steal" all the gas from a small pipe, and make it "whistle" when your trying to use the furnace and hot water tank and gas fire pit...it may not have enough "volume" if you do it in less than one inch pipe).
DONT cut into the 4" pipe, unless you can get reducers that large..(peruse your hardware, or plumbing store before hand, as you will have to buy all the neccesities so that you "dont have to run back" because you forgot something or it doesnt fit).
Now, measure where you want to "split the pipe". Remember, your going to have a 1/4 inch inside each pipe sleeve or elbow, so take that into account. Now, after you measure it, take out what ever measurement you need for the "T", and the "union"...(I would have already visited the plumbing store before this, so that I would know how "wide" the pieces are).
Now, get the piping and your ready to cut.
Either get a hack saw, or pipe cutter, an cut the pipe. Take out both sections and put in your small sections to the Union and "T". Make sure you use plenty of "dope" for the ends of the pipe, but, dont go overboard on the threads, because if you leak into the pipe, it may actually stop the flow of gas! (There reallys isnt that much pressure behind it, though it "seems" like a lot when you have a leak, eh?).
Now, install the rest of the pipe along the trench (use black pipe if your doing any kind of gas pipe, unless you opt for the orange plastic, then these instructions arent for you, you will have to have a different method that I am not going to explain here).
Remember to put in the hangers so you dont put stress on the main pipe. And you can bring your pipe up into the pit or outside the pit of the fireplace, (depending on your insert).
Now, after you have this done, a few hours of grunt work, your ready to turn everything back on. (MAKE SURE THE GAS VALVES ON THE NEW LINE IS OFF AT THE END!
Now, turn on the main gas line and LISTEN! If you dont hear a 'hissing sound' thats a 'plus'!
Ok, go to the stove, (probably the furthest appliance from the meter), and turn it on. Now, its going to take awhile to evacuate all the air from the line...(might be a few minutes even). So, when you "smell gas" from the stove, turn it off! (No, I didnt say anything about lighting any pilot lights yet...:)
Now, go to the fireplace, and turn that valve on until you smell gas, then turn it off.
Now, get a pail of soapy water and a brush and go along the entire pipe, hitting every joint..(yep, even the ones you didnt even touch before, because you may have "torqued" something loose and you NEVER want to be suprised about THAT!). All along it and dab the joints and sleeves and shut off valves and elbows and if the kid is there watching, dab his/her nose so that they think they are important in the scheme of things :) (It does all come off in the wash you can tell them LOL!).
Ok, now that you dont have any leaks...(Gas lines are a lot simpler than water lines, because you rarely have leaks if you "dope" the ends good on the threads), turn the pilot lights on to all appliances.
You can have the Gas Man inspect the work after you are done if your "still leary", and they will put a meter on it, to be sure you dont have any leaks..(pressure meter, that holds the pressure for 15 minutes or more to see if it will hold up at the meter, may cost you a wee bit, but, better safe than sorry, as I would say).
Oh, and to those others, this is a DIY project, as I have done it so many times in many places, and its not all that complicated if you take your time, and pay attention to details...
If you "need" to get a lisensed plumber to inspect after your done, then pay them to do so. (Some places have regulations and you should "always" check with your plumbing inspector for your City, Municipality or County, before doing any work like this, as they may want you to take out a building permit if it costs over a certain amount of money).
I wish you well..
Jesse
2006-08-20 17:13:45
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answer #8
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answered by x 7
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