English Deutsch Français Italiano Español Português 繁體中文 Bahasa Indonesia Tiếng Việt ภาษาไทย
All categories

how the waves occur in the place where the sea and land are joined?

2006-08-18 00:17:23 · 10 answers · asked by nijas 2 in Education & Reference Teaching

10 answers

Ocean waves are mechanical waves that propagate along the interface between water and air; the restoring force is provided by gravity, and so they are often referred to as surface gravity waves. As the wind blows, pressure and friction forces perturb the equilibrium of the ocean surface. These forces transfer energy from the air to the water, forming waves. In the case of monochromatic linear plane waves in deep water, particles near the surface move in circular paths, making ocean surface waves a combination of longitudinal (back and forth) and transverse (up and down) wave motions. When waves propagate in shallow water, (where the depth is less than half the wavelength) the particle trajectories are compressed into ellipses. As the wave amplitude (height) increases, the particle paths no longer form closed orbits; rather, after the passage of each crest, particles are displaced a little forward from their previous positions, a phenomenon known as Stokes drift. A good illustration of the wave motion is given by *Prof. Robert Dalrymple Java applet

2006-08-18 00:25:34 · answer #1 · answered by Gabriel- The God Sent one 3 · 1 1

Waves start life far from the shore. They are made by the wind blowing over water.
It only takes one minute ripple for the wind to catch, it kind of digs in and just makes the wave grow. It doesnt even take very long for a wave to be big enough to see, just have a look at a large pond, on a mildly windy day it will have small waves.
A bit more about waves.
A wave is much deeper than you might think, more than the height of the crest over the trough. If you took a cross section through a wave, you would see that the water is moving in a vertical circle, not flowing along with the wave. Thats ok in deep water, but when it reaches a beach and the water gets shallow the wave builds up, if it gets tall enough it will topple over (forwards) making surf and breakers.

yet more.. a tsunami is a wave, in deep water it may appear to be just a few inches high, but moving very fast, maybe hundreds of miles per hour, as it reaches shallow water it slows down, but builds up high

2006-08-18 07:33:13 · answer #2 · answered by a tao 4 · 0 1

Three things cause waves, regardless of where you are or how big the body of water is: The first is the gravitational effect of the moon on the waters of the Earth. This creates most of the waves and is also responsible for the tides. The second is weather conditions. Usually, wind and weather don't have that much effect on waves, but they can have significant effects when there is a tsunami, hurricane, etc. The third is watercraft. Any type of boat or jet-ski or submarine or whatever creates a wake, which creates waves.

2006-08-18 07:26:49 · answer #3 · answered by sarge927 7 · 0 2

Waves are created by the wind.

2006-08-18 07:24:20 · answer #4 · answered by konman1971 1 · 1 0

Waves are created by the force and the gravitational pull of the earth and the moon. Wind had little to do with waves.

2006-08-18 07:26:04 · answer #5 · answered by rebekah u 5 · 0 3

they occur as they dashes with the land and the waves are produced.

2006-08-18 07:24:50 · answer #6 · answered by Anonymous · 0 1

Neptune, god of the waters controls wave movement.

2006-08-21 17:16:23 · answer #7 · answered by Anonymous · 0 1

It's caused by a butterfly flapping it's wing and dippind it's toes in the ocean.

2006-08-18 07:36:20 · answer #8 · answered by StéphanDeGlasgow 5 · 0 1

Wind and gravity. Low tide and high tide are caused by gravity.

2006-08-18 07:22:11 · answer #9 · answered by Elim 5 · 1 0

waves only can tell

2006-08-18 07:21:28 · answer #10 · answered by male 33 friend 1 · 0 1

fedest.com, questions and answers