Sudden loud rattle from 1998 Ford Escort engine, is it over?

Question

Our fairly well maintained (at 175K miles) 1998 Ford Escort (2.0 Split Port Engine) was just serviced and passed California smog. Recently (less then 5000 miles) the timing belt failed and was replaced. Now suddenly the car only marginally starts and makes a loud clanging noise from the top of the engine. If you give it gas it does seem like igniton happens but the noise is so bad you wouldn't want to let it run. It sounds like a super loud diesel engine. This is all while the car is in park, so I assume it isn't a transmission problem. All the fluids are good, it doesn't look damaged and the oil seems to be oil, and coolant is coolant. It's been a good car that I want to keep, but I wonder if maybe it's run it's course? Obviously the problem is serious, but keep the car serious? Or not? Any thoughts from those who might know better on the problem? Or the history of high mileage Ford Escorts?

Answer 1

somebody will have to pop the valve cover and take a look. at 5000 miles later u can't blame the belt installer. it would have quit lots sooner. things wear out at high mileae. No, i wouldn't throw money at 175000 miles unless it was rreally simple and it doesn't sound like it.

Answer 2

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Sudden loud rattle from 1998 Ford Escort engine, is it over?
Our fairly well maintained (at 175K miles) 1998 Ford Escort (2.0 Split Port Engine) was just serviced and passed California smog. Recently (less then 5000 miles) the timing belt failed and was replaced. Now suddenly the car only marginally starts and makes a loud clanging noise from the top of...

Answer 3

If you haven't ran it too much it might not be damaged too bad. There are two types of engines. Interference and non-interference. Yours is an interference type which means if the timing breaks and a valve is open the piston will hit it if the crank is turned or in your case if it just slips it can cause them to lightly slap together as well. Good news is if it will start most likely it hasn't spun enough to really hit together hard. Yes, at 5K it can be the mechanic's fault. Just don't be too quick to blame. You might have also gotten a cheap belt that wore quickly and has lost some of its strength which will let it stretch as it heats up. They are just rubber with fiber through them. If your mechanic didn't tighten the tensioner bolts to specs or didn't check the tensioner and replace it with the belt it could have worn out and let slippage occur. It is common for a mechanic to replace a belt and leave a tensioner with 100K on it in the engine. When replacing one make it a rule of thumb to do both. Also use good, brand name parts as the cheapo's usually are junk. Some of your national chain stores use sub-standard parts with cheap prices to draw your business but still offer higher priced quality parts. I had to buy 3 water pumps for an Olds 307 before I got a good one at our local cheap spot. Same for oil pumps, alternators, starters, and many more parts. The manager who is a buddy of mine actually has pulled me aside and told me before that certain parts are over half defective on average. Anyway, just a thought....I have a 98 and 2000 Escort gl and they are fantastic cars. One has 240 K and the other 140K. I bought the 98 with 240K off the original owner because it started knocking like a rod was ready to slap through the side of the block. Three mechanics, one at the ford dealership said it was a rod knocking. He had just prior to the problem occuring bought a catalytic converter at Advance Auto Parts and put on the car. I took body parts off it to fix mine and we unhooked the converter in the garage and the knock went away. To make a long story short the converter was the whole problem. It was defective. The car still runs great. If your bolts were not tightened to factory specs you can bet that the jarring and shaking and potholes and speed bumps of 5000 miles can let them loosen up to the point that the belt can jump a couple notches. Don't start the engine again until you have it checked out. It is most likely a couple notches out.

Answer 4

Sounds like an old engine problem. A bearing could've finally worn. But check to make sure your spark plugs are all good. Had heard of some that the electrode can pop out the center, and rattle around internally in the combustion chamber.

Answer 5

It indicates a computer problem. The single most common cause is a bad oxygen sensor. Not very expensive to fix. However, you should get it taken care of as soon as possible, since the light indicates some problem with the environmental controls. The $50 sensor could ruin the $400 catalytic converter. Auto Zone car parts stores have a reader and can tell you what error code is being set in the computer.

Answer 6

My manual 95 Escort idles rough and when you let off of the gas it rattles really loud from under the car. When you let off of the gas it shuts off. Any ideas on this guys. I am hoping something just cam lose. My fiancé can fix almost anything himself, but I worry what it can be. I had a similar problem before and it was an oxygen sensor, but this is a little different than that.

Answer 7

Yes, I have seen this problem many times before from higher mileage 2.0 liter SPI engines. If you have it checked, I will guarantee that you have dropped a valve seat into one of the cylinders. I don't have enough fingers to count them all, and all the same failure. The more you run it the more that chunk of valve seat is chewing up the piston, cylinder walls, and head. The best course of action would be to either find a good used engine or a remanufactured replacement.

Answer 8

You either spun a main barring or connecting rod problem. I would say it cost more to have repaired then it is probably worth. Sadly say good bye to an old friend.

Answer 9

ford tech 32 years valve seat broke off and it over look for a new car sweed

Answer 10

Timming belt jumped timming, and the pistons are slamming into the valves.

Was the belt replaced by a reputable shop? Have it towed back and have them fix it again at NO CHARGE?