the width removed will be approximately 10 feet and, so as not to damage perfect original coving, i am planning on leaving approx 20 inches below the ceiling line. i was supposing i would then simply put a long 4x2, supported at each side, to make the bottom of the "arch" (which will be square) but will i need a lintel (non load bearing) to ensure that this stays square. I am assuming I need something to effectively prevent the top of the 4x2 vertical studs from falling down on themselves,as they will needto remain in situ because I am leaving the top part of the wall.
2006-08-17 09:50:15 · 10 answers · asked by AnthonyM 1 in Home & Garden ➔ Do It Yourself (DIY)
no you only need a lintel if its a load bearing wall be sure to check above for things like water tanks bathrooms etc
2006-08-17 10:03:00 · answer #1 · answered by leslie c 4 · 0⤊ 0⤋
lintels are for concrete work. Headers are used in framing.
if the wall is bearing then yes you need a header.
headers are made out of at least 2x6's, 2x8's would be better. with your span I would use at least a 2x10. get two and nail a strip of 1/2 inch plywood between them to make up the difference in thickness.
headers are installed vertically, not horizontally.
headers are supported on both sides by 2 2x4's nailed into the stud. so that there are total of 3 2x4's on both sides.
also if the wall is non bearing consider a couple of pieces of all thread, washers and nuts. you run it though the header and into the joists above. make sure that you bore holes to hide the nuts and washers inside the header.
2006-08-20 11:13:46 · answer #2 · answered by ph62198 6 · 0⤊ 0⤋
If you are leaving the existing top rail of the stud wall in place and this is adequately anchored to the celing, then all you need to do is to imaging that the bit above the arch is a 'ladder' frame. Ensure that you have vertical studs (about 18" apart) firmly attached at one end to the top rail, and at the other to your 4x2.
This will make sure that the 4x2 does not sag in the middle.
2006-08-17 10:20:28 · answer #3 · answered by Martin G 4 · 0⤊ 0⤋
Test drill the wall to see if there is any support for the remaining structure , the wall and maybe the bedroom floor joists may be carried by this wall. sometimes the stud may offer no support at all and may be a simple partition wall which may be removed and then simply made good, The best way is to get a free estimate off a builder and let him tell you what it needs then do it yourself.
2006-08-17 10:04:45 · answer #4 · answered by mike s 2 · 0⤊ 0⤋
What you really need to install is a 4x10 beam spanning the opening. This is to support the studs left above the opening. The only problem is unless you open at least one side of the coving there will be no way to trim the remaining studs to length or to nail them to the beam.
If you do install the beam you will need two support studs (cripple studs) beneath each end of the beam.
2006-08-17 10:00:45 · answer #5 · answered by big_mustache 6 · 0⤊ 0⤋
You have to determine whether it is a load bearing wall or not although it's rare for studding to be load bearing it can be.. if it's not load bearing then you don't need a lintel
2006-08-17 09:59:05 · answer #6 · answered by engineer 4 · 0⤊ 0⤋
If it's not a load bearing wall then No you don't.Just make sure of a good exit before you start
2006-08-17 10:44:55 · answer #7 · answered by Kevin R 1 · 0⤊ 0⤋
Uh arent they called two by fours (2x4) not four by twos (4x2)?
2006-08-17 13:12:48 · answer #8 · answered by newgardener 1 · 1⤊ 0⤋
you only need lintels if there is brick or block otherwise the answer is no
2006-08-17 09:57:33 · answer #9 · answered by Anonymous · 0⤊ 0⤋
Its hard to fully understand what your sayin....
Best bet,, get someone in that knows...But, get a quote 1st.
DIY is not always the cheapest option...
2006-08-17 09:59:35 · answer #10 · answered by junio130 3 · 0⤊ 0⤋