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I have a '91 Chevy Lumina with a 3.1 V6. On really hot days when I'm stuck in traffic or at a drive-thru, the temperature guage approaches the high side and the cooling fan does not come on. A few times the guage showed an overheat condition and the temp light also came on...no fan. My Haynes manual is worthless in many aspects, this being one of them, so I need help from you kind folks. How can I check the fan relay to see if that is the problem? Or could it somehow be the temp sensor or thermostat?

2006-08-17 05:44:40 · 9 answers · asked by Proud Daddy 2 in Cars & Transportation Maintenance & Repairs

The coolant is in great condition and is properly diluted. Also the water pump is fine, and there are no leaks. This appears to be a problem exclusively with the fan and/or circuitry.

2006-08-17 05:48:29 · update #1

The car has A/C but it does not work, so I'm not able to test the fan by turning on the A/C. Also, there are 2 cooling fans...isn't one for A/C and the other for general cooling?

2006-08-17 06:32:54 · update #2

9 answers

Your t-stat is ok, it is probably the temp sensor, the relay, or (most likely) the fan motor. The fan should run when the ac is turned on, try turning it on and check for power to the fan motor with a test light while it is still hooked up. If it is running already, check the relay by grounding the correct sensor to see if the fan then comes on (or if your test light comes on).
The fan motor takes alot of power to run, they are hard to check. It is by far the most likely failure. Good luck!

2006-08-17 05:56:23 · answer #1 · answered by Claira Voyant 6 · 0 0

You've gotten some pretty decent answers, but I will add my $.02. I would first check the fuse(if you haven't) . Then, disconnect the leads to the fan motor, warm up the car to the point you know the fan should operate, then test to see if you have the 12- 15V at the leads, if you do...the fan motor is out. If not then you need to determine if the relay is bad or the sensor is bad.... to check the relay, pull it and test the coil. You should have some resistance between two of the connectors if you don't, the relay is bad....these would be the magnet coil. I would then take two wires with battery clips on one end and aligator clips on the other....connect one of the coil leads to the positive battery cable, connect the aligator clip to the other coil lead(polarity should make no difference here), then touch the battery clip to the ground post...you should hear a click inside the relay as the power contact is made. Or you could connect a continuity meter to the power connectors and observe continuity when you touch the ground of the battery as well. If you determine the relay to be in working order, then either the temp sensor is bad or a wire has become disconnected.

2006-08-17 06:27:58 · answer #2 · answered by Mike H 1 · 0 0

Until you get a better answer, I am not familiar with that specific model, but I had a similar problem with a Ford Escort.

And, it was the sensor in the water hose leading to the thermostat. The Escort had two sensors, one to the gauge and one to the fan switch.

If you don't get a better answer, you might try looking for two sensors in the coolant hoses.

The fan relay should be fairly large and located with other relays in a relay box, but that's just a guess since I'm not familiar with that model.

And, if you are familiar with relays, should be able to short across the points that lead to the high & low sides of the fan motor.

You should also be able to jumper (short) a wire from the battery to the fan motor itself to check the fan motor.




They are probably used for hi & lo speed cooling. The computer controls that. They should both be tested using the tests that have been described. You might have two fan relays, but it is not necessary. Both fans could operate off the same relay depending on the input signal from the computer.

2006-08-17 05:56:07 · answer #3 · answered by Left the building 7 · 0 0

Do you have and use the A/C? If so, Start the car and stand in front of it. Have a friend turn the A/C on MAX and listen. Did the Fan come on? If not, you can rule out (probably) the temp sensor for now.
Next locate the relay and fuse box under the hood. Your Haynes SHOULD be able to help you there. Swap the fan relay for another (Horn? Power Seats?) and try again.
If the fan now comes on, you have identified your problem component.
Replace the relay < $20.00.
If it still doesn't come on, you are left with a failed fan motor (most likely) or problems in wiring harness.

2006-08-17 06:13:06 · answer #4 · answered by Ironhand 6 · 0 0

numerous sure and no solutions, so a million/2 would be real! frequently talking you get 2 forms of sales instruments for processors, Retail and OEM. Retail will incorporate a fan OEM (unique kit producer) won't. some retail businesses will incorporate a fan interior the cost of aftermarket products however the sales blurb ought to tell you. The sales blurb for this reason says it relatively is a Retail Boxed product so it is going to incorporate a fan.

2016-12-11 10:26:33 · answer #5 · answered by ? 4 · 0 0

Thermostat could be stuck shut. They are very inexpensive. $20-30 for standard $40-50 for performance. They are a very good investment especially if you do most of your driving away from home.

2006-08-17 11:12:58 · answer #6 · answered by Joe 2 · 0 0

I would say it's almost certainly the thermostat. Fans don't tend to break that often, but thermostats do go bad.

You can test it, or if it's cheap, just replace it.

2006-08-17 05:50:48 · answer #7 · answered by Steve 6 · 0 0

the fan relay, thermostat or temperature sensor i would check

2006-08-17 05:58:44 · answer #8 · answered by stop_lyin 2 · 0 0

water:)

2006-08-17 05:50:46 · answer #9 · answered by Anonymous · 0 0

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