what are the parts or accessories to consider to make my car good in drifting?

Question

'''''putting tachometer etc.

i'm using a van and a civic

Answer 1

No offense to the last poster but that's not the best way to get yourself a decent drift car. The motor isn't entirely significant in the drift process, or not nearly as much so as the driveline, transmission, and body... so, here's a little more experience for you...

1. FRONT WHEEL DRIVE CAN DRIFT. I have a 99 Neon that I can whip corners up in the mountains of Colorado, where I live. It's called E-BRAKE and LSD!!! Come on now, that's not complicated. Your Civic wont be a champion drifter (and forget about the van!) but you can hang in there if you do this right.

FWD? How does that matter as much as Automatic trans vs manual trans? If you have an automatic drifting wont be as fun or simple as with a manual. In fact, with your Civic, none of these mods really become "worth it" unless you've got a manual so you can force high RPMs and make your tranny do what you want.

2. Low-pro racing tires... what an idiot. Racing tires give you GRIP, when you are drifting you want as little grip as possible. You want to balance snap, hook, and cornering ability. So go with Kumho or another company that has drift-ready tires but don't go out and buy DOT-drag-radials... Advanced drifters can use rubber compound that is relatively high grip but they know what they're doing. And PROFILE (the "pro" in low-pro) has _nothing_ to do with drifting in the "visual" sense that he was talking about.

The best way to do it is some slippery tires on the back for quick-snap and long-drifts, and some grippier ones up front for control and exit-effectiveness. Now there's some knowledge.

And as far as rims, the 14's or 15's that come stock on your Civic will be totally fine.

Stretch a tire over a wide rim and you get sidewall rigidity which is a benefit for drifters but again, profile-for-looks doesn't matter. Sidewall and rim-offset are factors that matter.

And, you are going to want a couple of sets of whatever tires you get, you'll be wasting them quickly if you are inexperienced.

The first thing I would suggest for the car is making sure the it is in good running condition. Make sure all the belts are good, check all the fluids and do an oil change. If the air filter is dirty, get a new one. I would suggest buying a CAI or K&N. The motor gets abused with the kinds of RPMs you'll be throwing at it so it better be in decent condition. In terms of internal mods like the last genius mentioned you don't need to worry too much, cams, crank, valves, none of that matters so much.

Next thing your going to need to check is the brakes, make sure pads have life left and the rotors are not warped. Upgrades are always good where possible, like getting drilled/slotted rotors and braided lines. You dont need a 150 dollar set of endless or PMU pads, and with NAPA its lifetime replacement free.

So now your car is running like new. Your ready for your first mods. If you have the cash, spring for a set of coilovers, don't settle for cheap here! Check your dampeners while you're at this step, they probably could use replacements. Struts would be a good idea, too - but they aren't TOTALLY essential.

Strut bars are next... You can get them on EBay for pretty cheap if that's what you're looking for. Before you go try to drift like crazy, drive your car for a little and get used to the handling characteristics of your new setup, it can be surprisingly different with a highly modified driveline and / or motor.

If you are serious about drifting this is where you do weight removal, wherever and however you can. Obviously if you've got a daily driver you can't be removing seats and carpeting but you can hold off on the fancy system and PS2.

Next get at least a bucket seat for you, but match yours and the passenger's if you can. Sparco makes good ****, and you'll need a nice seat to keep you planted while you're whipping corners. You don't need a 4-point harness right away but it's a worthy investment.

And then my uber-experience last-posting idiot-friend didn't mention the most important drift-part. Limited Slip Differential (very expensive and hard to install), this is the most crucial drift-part. You will need one if you are serious about drifing.

Finally, after you've wrecked your tranny the first time (if it's a manual) you should do a stage three (or so) clutch upgrade from Clutchmasters. You'll have lightweight and high-strength components which will make life alot easier for your trans.

Leave the van alone, but as for the Civic you'd have more fun setting it up for 1/4th mile or top-speed but you can drift it, just take care of your little rice-burner and upgrade it accordingly.

Good luck!

Answer 2

I used to have a Ford Probe that could hang out the tail pretty far even without resorting to the handbrake. The trick was to slow down in the middle of a very hard corner, shifting weight off the rear tires forward. I had no trouble getting it to do this even on race tires. You're likely to need a car with fairly well balanced handling to do this - a large rear sway bar on your Civic and some good shocks (for predictability) would be about all I would do.

Then get out there and practice, practice, practice. Get in as much practice as you can - preferably in an environment where there are no other cars to hit and you have no curbs, ditches, or trees to hit if things go wrong. A big parking lot can work, but the best choice would be to see if you could attend a drifting school and get some good instructions.

You would have to be insane to try drifting a van - and not in a good way. But you might want to consider trading one or more of your cars in on something rear wheel drive with a low center of gravity and a manual transmission. Even an old four cylinder Mustang might work - you can pick those up for less than the cost of a good set of shocks for the Civic.

Answer 3

you could, in spite of the incontrovertible fact that it incredibly is expen$ive for a number of it. ABS needs distinctive sensors and wiring. The differential ( transaxle) is a type of bolt in, however the suspension is different, the single you go with is a 4 hyperlink, what you have is a 2 hyperlink. the vast engine will twist the physique like a pretzel. . examine the physique and physique artwork for rust, factors are available yet you will finally end up with the cost of a 2015. each little thing until eventually now 'sixty 4 is a 6 volt gadget, replace the excellent wiring gadget for 12 volts, Audio, lighting fixtures, those stupid under glows. After mods the motor vehicle won't be nicely well worth the unique restorer.

Answer 4

first of all you should have listed what kind of car you have dude, if its rear wheel drive its all good then if its front wheel drive ehh thats not the best idea trust me i know from experience.. so if u do have a rear wheel drive car, i suggest front and rear strut bars = less body roll , some nice low profile racin tires, and basically anything you can take out of your car to make it lightweight as possible, little engine mods will be good too so u can acclerate faster on the corners and drift crazier, intake, headers, cams, etc... goood luck!

Answer 5

next year enter get a Subaru wrx and get sponcers and enter the x games for rally races it has drifting in it too