During monsoon, inside walls of the rooms of my house have grown fungus. How to get rid of it?

Answer 1

Acetic acid i,e, vinegar could be applied sucessfully to remove fungus from walls. Mix 5-10gram per lit vinegar in a bucket of water, stir to mix and then either spray or rub the wall with a piece of cotton with the prepared chemicals allow to stay for 10-15mins then clean it.This is non hazardous and quick method to remove fungus.

Answer 2

Moisture seepage through wall is the primary cause. The concrete does have air gaps.When these are exposed, however minutely, onthe exterior walls, the water/moistue becomes imbedded within it. Slowle, as the accumpulation increases, it is expelled to the inner walls.

A cosmetic job on the interior wall will be only a temporary job. What you need is coating the wall with weather coat pint. Jenson & nerolac supplies at Rs.23/per Ltr, a litre has a coverage of 40 sq ft in a two coat spread. It comes colourless, and you may add a tinge of color oxide that best matches the existing outer wall color.
Also, please check the tiles on the roof. Leakages there also spread moisture/wetness in the house.

Answer 3

Antifungal Spray For Walls

Answer 4

If moisture problems cannot be corrected, commercial household labeled fungicides may be effective in eliminating fungal growth in selected areas. Household aerosol sprays of pyrethrins will kill many beetles when applied in crevices under baseboards, around windows, doors and lights. Repeat treatments will be needed to control newly emerging adults. Residual contact sprays of bendiocarb (Ficam), allethrin, or resmethrin will help give control. Usually, these residual insecticides are recommended only as a last resort and normally not needed.

Answer 5

I put a combination of bleach and water in a spray bottle to kill mold on shower curtains. Works very well. Keep the area ventilated.

Answer 6

You have to remove all drywall if it's on,or in the dry wall ,because theres know way to remove it from these surfersis.

Answer 7

get anti seepage coating done from the outside

Answer 8

get tilex brand cleaner.

Answer 9

bleach and water.

Answer 10

Hi Hope thia is useful to U..

A Detailed Plan For Cleanup of Small Areas


Wear gloves! You should also wear a good quality mask. For best protection, ask at the hardware store for a mask that is rated N95 or better.
Dried moulds are easily scattered about the house whereas wet moulds are sticky and will stay put. Thus, during the actual cleanup phase it is best if the surface of the mouldy material is wet. This may mean that, paradoxically, you are going to re-moisten at least the surface of the material with water or disinfectant. The fungal spores that may be on the surface of the contaminated material will be spread less easily if they are dampened before being wiped away.
Involved materials come in three broad categories. Truly porous materials (sheetrock, ceiling tiles) will have fungus that has deeply penetrated their surface. These must be discarded. Cloth-covered furniture can sometimes be cleaned by using a very high efficiency vacuum process (referred to as HEPA vacuuming), but this is expensive and simply discarding the furniture may make the most sense. Semi-porous materials (concrete, wood) may have varying levels of fungal penetration. These can sometimes (but not always) be cleaned. Non-porous surfaces (plastics) usually have only surface contamination and are readily cleaned.
Bag and discard grossly infested materials such as sheetrock. It is best if the surfaces are at least damp during this process, as this will reduce the spreading of the spores. Carpet is a special problem, and thorough cleaning may be impossible. Discarding it may well be the easiest solution. Be sure to remove all of the contaminated material plus (if applicable) a rim of unaffected material. With sheetrock for example, it is often suggested that one remove a 12" rim of clean unaffected material beyond the area of obvious damage.
Allow the area to dry.
Clean the surface with a standard detergent. (See below for discussion of use of cleaning agents stronger than detergent.)
That should do it! Your surface(s) should now be clean, dry, and free of mould. Depending on your setting, you may choose to retest the surface to verify that the remediation was done properly. Remember that keeping surfaces free of mould is a function of preventing moisture from accumulating.


Old Guidance on Using Bleach for Cleanup
Cleaning with detergent will only remove fungus by mechanical means -- simple detergents generally can't kill the fungal spores. Prior guidance from the EPA has suggested use of bleach as a final disinfection step. However, this procedure can be hazardous and current guidance omits this step. We are including our old notes on the process here so that the information and its hazards are available. But, the process is not recommended any longer. If you having something that you believe requires this degree of disinfection, consultation with a professional is advised.

TO USE THESE STEPS, YOU MUST NOT USE AN AMMONIA-CONTAINING CLEANER (DETERGENT). MIXING AMMONIA WITH BLEACH CAN CAUSE RELEASE OF VERY TOXIC GASES CALLED CHLORAMINES. THESE GASES CAN CAUSE COUGHING, A FEELING OF SUFFUOCATION, OR EVEN DEATH!
After cleaning with the detergent, thoroughly rinse the surface.
BE SURE YOUR WORK AREA IS WELL VENTILATED!
Disinfect the surface with a 10% solution of bleach. That is, mix ~1.5 cups of bleach with each gallon of water. Thoroughly swab the infected surface. Remember, no ammonia-based detergents are allowed at any step in this procedure. Also, be sure your work area is well ventilated. Bleach fumes are irritating to the nose, throat, and eyes. Bleach can also damage your clothes or shoes.
Allow the bleach solution to dry in place. Do not rinse it off. It is during this step that the fungal spores are actually being killed.
How Do I Know When I Am Done With My Cleanup?

You are done with cleanup with (a) there is no visible mould, (b) there are no mould odors, and (c) you have fixed the moisture/water problem so that it will not recur [93].


Prevent The Mould From Returning!

Repeat after me: Moisture makes fungi grow, moisture makes fungi grow, moisture makes fungi grow! This mantra is absolutely the key. But, sometimes it is hard to know why the moisture is appearing. Short of a leaking pipe, moisture generally appears due to condensation on surfaces that are at or below the dew point for a given relative humidity. For example, an exposed outside corner of a building might be just cool enough to cause condensation of moisture that doesn't occur on adjacent walls. Or, the cool air flowing out of an air supply vent might hit a section of wall such that the wall cools enough to condense moisture. For more on this topic, see the Moisture, Mold, and Mildew discussion in Appendix C of the EPA's Building Air Quality: A Guide for Building Owners and Facility Managers.

As a supplemental step, you might consider making the surface fungus-resistant. Many building materials with anti-fungal properties are available. For example, you might choose to replace moisture-prone carpeting with an indoor-outdoor carpet that is fungus resistant. Paints that contain antifungal compounds are available (see, for example the paint called Portersept® on the Porter Paints website. Likewise, caulking compounds that incorporate antifungal compounds are also available (see, for example, the product called DAP Kwik Seal Plus.)


Damaged Clothing and Household Goods

We are very often asked about whether one must discard clothing or other household goods that have either been exposed to a "contaminated environment" or actually had mould growing on them. Objects with non-porous surfaces can usually just be wiped clean. And, as stated so nicely in the American College of Occupational and Environmental Medicine's position statement [80], "Colonized porous materials, e.g., clothing or upholstery, can be cleaned using appropriate routine methods, e.g., washing or dry cleaning clothing, and need not be discarded unless cleaning fails to restore an acceptable appearance."


Damaged Papers and Photographs

Remediation of water-damaged papers is discussed only by the EPA [93]. For non-valuable items, they recommend discarding the materials. For important papers, they recommend that one photocopy the items and then discard the originals. As a temporary measure, one can freeze (in frost-free freezer or meat locker) or freeze-dry the papers. Similar principles apply to to books and photographs. The American Institute of Conservation website provides a number of useful tips and also provides contact information for professional conservators.


It Just Got Wet From Steam or High Humidity

Handling of materials that have merely been exposed to high humidity is not discussed anywhere at all. The closest discussion in spirit is a discussion of handling steam-damaged materials that is provided on the University of Minnesota web site. Basically, clean materials are simply dried and monitored. Again and again, we come back to the principal of visual and olfactory assessment for moulds. These concepts are echoed in comments in other documents [88, 93], but specific discussions of this issue are lacking. For example, the EPA Mold Remediation in Schools and Commercial Buildings document [93] states "Once dried out, clean NON-moldy materials within 48 hours to prevent mold growth." Clearly, dry, NON-moldy materials would appear to already be acceptable for continued use.


Other Resources

We provide specific literature references on most of our pages. However, we also have a separate page devoted just to a critical summary of the mould-related literature that is readily found on the web. Check it out!

About These Pages
The material and ideas here are drawn from many sources, including our own experience. However, this is an area with few guidelines and even fewer hard facts. So, you must always apply common sense in choosing how to adapt the ideas presented here to your own situation. When in doubt, please consult with a professional. You can find experts in this field by searching on the term "mould remediation" in your favorite search engine. At times, there is simply no substitute for experience and personal knowledge.