How (and when) do I grow St Augustine grass in the desert?

Question

Currently have a Bermuda grass lawn and am located in Imperial County, CA. Bought two trays of St Augustine grass about a month ago (mid July). Tried breaking it up and spreading plugs around. Now almost all of it is dead. Would prefer to do it right the next time.

Answer 1

This is my favorite lawn care website. You can find the information you seek at:

http://www.lawnandgardenguide.info/

Good luck with your lawn.

Answer 2

St. Augustine is not really sturdy enough for a desert environment.
Try Zoysia, Bermuda, or Buffalo grass.
If you must have St. Auaustine, plant in the fall, water only in the morning. It may go dormant in the winter (do you have winter?)but
should come out stronger in the spring.

Answer 3

St. Aug. doesn't go dormant when allowed to dry. It dies. Supplemental moisture is essential. Water often during estab. period and wean to more infrequent but very deep watering. Soil profile dries from top down and roots will seek moisture, grow deep. No watering until turf looks a bit greyish, like 40%. Then roots have exploited soil profile/depleted moisture. Irrigate to 10"-12" depth, likely inch or so in a rain gauge...wait till 40% greyish, drought stressed a little. Lather, rinse, repeat. Chinch bugs will likely appear, control with imidicloprid. Use 3-4 pounds of actual nitrogen/yr. depending on growth rate, color and vigor desired. More fert = more mowing but looks awesome. Too much will give you disease and toxicity problems. No more than 5 lbs. year. When very fertile do not artificially extend dew period. Water when dew forms and give all day to dry. Maintain dryish uppermost soil layer, to 1" depth. Mow no more than 1/3 blade off at any one mowing. Keep highly trafficked areas aerated, avoid soil compaction to keep roots vigorous and plants vibrant. Aerify in fall is best, possibly spring but not after using Dimension as grassy weed preventive. Apply that when soil reaches about 45-50 degrees at 2" depth I think and do not break soil surface. It foems a barrier keeping crabgrass, etc. down. Don't use where seeding planned, will inhibit germination.
Water/mow/fert, water/mow/fert, water/mow/fert are primary concerns. Problems likely indicate one of those improper.
Weeds indicate turf lack vigor to outcompete, generally due to water/ow/fert regimen improper.
Secondary cultural practices are verticutting, aerifying, etc. Aerifying probably most neglected by avg. homeowner.
Chinch bugs, overfert and drought most likely issues. Mowing high as poss allows deep root growth, better drought tolerance. Prior to winter feed with fert having larger third number, potassium. Have fun and don't over-manage/love it to death. Water, mow, fert. nothin to it.

Answer 4

You don't. Good lord.

Try xerascaping...take advantage of the environemnt you live in...don't let it take advantage of you and your wallet....and don't waste water!