How To DIY To Fix A Leaking Tap??

Question

The tap at my kitchen sink is leaking, although I've turned off the tap completely, water still drips out... The situation is geting worst. Just imagine the amount of utility fees I have to pay at the end of the month.

Please teach me how to fix this problem. I dun wanna get a plumber cos those people charge a bomb.

Answer 1

Check out these links, you didn't specify a two handle or a single handle here's one of each.
http://www.hammerzone.com/archives/plumbing/faucet/delta_peerless/1/overhaul.htm
http://www.hometownstores.com/howtodir/valves/valve.htm
Hope it helps.

Answer 2

Steps
Start by shutting off the water supply to the leaky faucet.
If there isn't an individual valve supplying the tap in question (look under the sink), find the main water supply tap and shut off the water to the entire dwelling. If you're not sure which way to turn the tap handle, remember the plumbing anthem, "Righty tighty, lefty loosey." (i.e. Turning the tap all the way to the right closes the valve tight, so no water flows. Turning the tap all the way to the left loosens the valve and opens the flow of water.) Or simply wait until someone is having a shower; then you get instant audible feedback confirming that the water is now off.
After turning off the water, turn the leaky tap(s) to the 'on' position to drain the lines. Plug the sink to preclude coarse language caused by dropping parts down the drain.
Study your tap handle. Most handles have a decorative cap that hides the working parts. You have to figure out how to remove this cover, button or tab. Some of them are totally baffling, but they all come off. Usually a flathead screwdriver or knife blade easily lifts the decorative cap.
After prying off the cap, you should see a screw, usually a "Phillips" (the kind with an 'x' stamped in the head). Remove it with a screwdriver that fits really snugly. Push down hard enough as you screw that you actually grunt. This ensures that the screwdriver won't slip and strip the screw head.
Once you've removed the screw, pull the tap handle up and off. Marvel at how well this is going.
The first thing you'll see after removing the handle is the top of the 'stem', and the hexagonal outline of the brass packing nut. To unscrew the nut, use a tight-fitting wrench that won't strip the soft brass. If you must use tongue-in-groove pliers, cover the 'teeth' with duct tape so they don't tear up the brass. TIP: Avoid adjustable 'crescent' wrenches. They don't stay tight on the packing nut and you'll end up rounding off the nut's edges and then you'll be totally, horribly scuppered and that's being conservative.
Once you've loosened the brass packing nut with your wrench, pull the whole 'stem' assembly up and out.
At the bottom of the stem is a small brass screw that holds a washer (usually black rubber) in position. Eureka. If it's compressed, squished or has grooves in it, replacing it will probably cure your faucet's leak.
Now if your handle has been leaking, you have a different problem. Unscrew the packing nut from the stem. (The stem is slippery, so pop the handle back onto the stem and you'll get a better grip.) Once you have the packing nut off, you'll see a rubber O-ring riding in a groove on the stem. If it's torn or squished, you need to replace it.
Now, there are about 3,498 tap configurations in the world. Washers and O-rings range wildly in size, shape and thickness. So take the ENTIRE STEM with you to the hardware store and exactly match the parts you need to replace, or buy a whole new identical stem if that's the mood you're in.
When you get home, remove the old, gnarly washer by undoing the screw at the bottom of the stem. Set the plump, frisky new washer in position. Re-tighten the screw.
(optional) Remove the old O-ring and install a new one. If you have some plumber's silicone grease, coat the O-ring with it before putting it back in place. Screw the packing nut back onto the stem and drop it into position. Hand-tighten the packing nut, then tighten it a further half turn using your wrench.
Replace the handle, re-install the screw and decorative tab. That's it. Turn the tap to the off position.
Go back to the water supply and open the valve by turning it "lefty loosey". Check to make sure the leak is gone.

Answer 3

Ok first is it washer less.If so the cartridge needs to be rebuilt or replaced(if there is any nick in the chrome just replace the whole fixture) if it is 2 handled washer type;turn the water off under the sink at the stop valve(if that doesn't stop it then the whole house,and replace the stop valve);then(once no water is leaking/running) take the Handel off(there is a Phillips screw under the H/C indicator(which prys up);with a wrench remove the stem(on the nut exposed by removing the handel) ;after the stem is removed(down the hole) there is a seat(usually the cause of the problem but washer on stem should be replaced also);With a large screw driver(and a strong grip) or a seat wrench(L shaped is better)unscrew the seat(they are usually brass) take the stem and seat to a hardware store(for proper sizing and threads);buy the parts and reassemble in reverse order. Be sure to get a steel (molybdenum) seat to replace the brass one or you will be redoing it in 5-10 yrs.

Answer 4

1) Turn off the water where it enters the house
2) Pry off any plastic cover on the faucet that covers the screw
3) Remove the screw and the faucet handle
4) Inside you will see a worn out rubber gasket. Take it to your hardware store and get another one
5) Reassemble in the opposite order.

Answer 5

Depending on the sink fixture you can disassemble it and obtain replacement parts. Could be a small gasket or something.

Or, just replace the faucet. Usually not too difficult.

Answer 6

It may be time to replace the faucet....check out this guide http://www.allhomerepairsyourself.com/fixing-leaky-faucets.htm