what's the best way to get rid of fleas in your house? Somehow, our cats got them, and now they're everywhere

Answer 1

If you neglect to treat the pet's environment (the premises), you will miss more than 90% of the developing flea population -- the eggs, larvae and pupae. If the pet spends time indoors, the interior of the home should also be treated. Before treatment, the pet owner should:

Remove all toys, clothing, and stored items from floors, under beds, and in closets. This step is essential so that all areas will be accessible for treatment.

Remove pet food and water dishes, cover fish tanks, and disconnect their aerators.

Wash, dry-clean or destroy all pet bedding.

Vacuum! -- vacuuming removes many of the eggs, larvae and pupae developing within the home. Vacuuming also stimulates pre-adult fleas to emerge sooner from their insecticide-resistant cocoons, thus hastening their contact with insecticide residues in the carpet. By raising the nap of the carpet, vacuuming improves the insecticide's penetration down to the base of the carpet fibers where the developing fleas live. Vacuum thoroughly, especially in areas where pets rest or sleep. Don't forget to vacuum along edges of rooms and beneath furniture, cushions, beds, and throw rugs. After vacuuming, seal the vacuum bag in a garbage bag and discard it in an outdoor trash container.
Insecticide Application - Once fleas become established in a home, insecticides are almost always needed to control them. Always read and follow label directions on the insecticide container. Other than the person performing the application, people and pets should be out of the house during treatment. People and pets should also remain off treated surfaces until the spray has dried. This may take several hours, depending on carpet type, ventilation and method of application. Opening windows and running the fan or air conditioner after treatment will enhance drying and minimize odor.

Many different products are available for home treatment. The most effective formulations contain both an adulticide (e.g., permethrin) effective against the biting adult stage, and an insect growth regulator (methoprene or pyriproxyfen), necessary to provide long-term suppression of the eggs, larvae and pupae. Pet owners will need to carefully read the “active ingredients” panel on the product label to determine if these ingredients are present. Examples include Raid Flea Killer Plus(R), Siphotrol Plus(R), , Bio Flea Halt(TM), and Fleatrol(R). Most homeowners will find aerosol formulations easier to apply than liquids. Moreover, aerosol products which can be dispensed by hand -- and thus directed under and behind beds, furniture, etc. -- tend to be more effective than “foggers” or “bug bombs” which are indiscriminately set off in the center of a room. It is essential that the application be thorough and include all likely areas of flea development. Carpets, throw rugs, under and behind beds and furniture, and beneath cushions on which pets sleep should all be treated. Pay particular attention to areas where pets spend time or sleep, as these will be the areas where most flea eggs, larvae and pupae will be concentrated. For example, if the family cat sleeps within a closet, or hides under the bed, these areas must be treated or the problem will continue. Hardwood and tile floors generally do not require treatment, but should be thoroughly vacuumed.

Expect to see some fleas for 2 weeks or longer following treatment. Provided all infested areas were treated initially, these "survivors" are probably newly emerged adults which have not yet succumbed to the insecticide. Instead of retreating the premises immediately, continue to vacuum. As noted earlier, vacuuming stimulates the insecticide-resistant pupae to hatch, bringing the newly emerged adults into contact with the insecticide sooner. Flea traps, such as those utilizing a light and glue board to attract and capture adult fleas, can be helpful but will not eliminate a flea infestation unless used in combination with other methods. If adult fleas continue to be seen beyond 2-4 weeks, retreatment of the premises (and pet) may be necessary.

It is important that the pet be treated in conjunction with the premises, preferably on the same day. Adult fleas spend virtually their entire life on the animal -- not in the carpet. Untreated pets will continue to be bothered by fleas. They may also transport fleas in from outdoors, eventually overcoming the effectiveness of the insecticide applied inside the home.

Pets can be treated either by a veterinarian or the pet owner. A variety of on-animal formulations are available that may be prescribed by veterinarians. Many provide only short-term relief against biting adults (a few hours to a few weeks); however, two new veterinarian-supplied products, Advantage and Frontline, control adult fleas on pets for 1 and 3 months, respectively. Some products also contain an insect growth regulator (IGR) to prevent eggs from hatching as they are laid on the animal (e.g., Raid Flea Killer Plus, Ovitrol Plus(R), Bio Spot(TM)). Convenient, long-term prevention of egg hatch can be accomplished either with the Ovitrol(R) Flea Egg Collar, or Program(R), administered orally to pets as a tablet. (See ENTFACT 628 - A Smarter Approach To Flea Control). Both of these products are available through veterinarians.

Pet owners should always read the product label. Certain products can be used only on dogs, and some list specific treatment procedures for puppies and kittens. Do not treat pets with the same products used to treat carpeting or the yard. As previously mentioned, it is important that pets be kept off treated carpets and surfaces until the spray has completely dried.

To re-cap, "de-fleaing" the pet is an essential step in ridding a home of fleas. However, pet owners must also treat the pet's environment, the home. Having your pet dipped will not, in itself, eliminate fleas in an infested home.

Answer 2

Dear Beth. You please get your residence disinfected through a few expert. If you go away this subject unattended for a while. the fleas could move slowly up and have an impact on your whole residence. I had the identical disorders, while the insects attacked our residence and we needed to difference the entire carpets, cushions to conclude them however the outcomes was once no longer very so much end result. We used a wide variety of inscticide however with little end result. The faster you do the disinfection of your residence the higher for you. Don't waste time. Good Luck

Answer 3

First make sure they are off your cats... Then go buy a few cheap flea collars, snip them into pieces and put them in a new vacuum cleaner bag. (wash your hands after handling them!) Vacuum your house a couple times a day for a few days, then throw that bag away. You may need to repeat this if it doesn't completely get them at first. Also, wash any bedding, clothing, etc that the cats came in contact with, and use hot water in the machine. This completely ridded our home of fleas last time our dogs brought them in!

Answer 4

If they are in your furniture I think there is no way around it but to fumigate. We had to do this once as the fleas were biting us and really causing us some distress. Besides, you will get caught in a nasty cycle of fleas to pets to furniture unless you ensure you "wipe the slate clean".

Answer 5

we got them in our house from a neighbors dog once. After work I would sit on the couch and wait for them to land on me and catch them on the sticky side of scotch tape. It took a couple of days but I did'nt have any second batches hatch either. There are sprays on the market if you want to go with poisoning the pesky little critters. If I recall a bug bomb works best! Or you can tape them to death!!!

Answer 6

go to the vet and buy revoloution flea drops, put on your cats as directed, it will clear the whole house out in a month or two. amazing stuff. also another brand is advantage. but its sold by vets only.

Answer 7

i use the bug bombs....one time and then again in a couple of weeks