How to make a silencer?

Answer 1

THE DISPOSABLE SILENCER
IN THE COURSE OF PUTTING this book together, while disguising myself as a writer I
chanced to interview a former law enforcement officer with twenty seven years
experience for his opinion of how a perfect hit would go down. It was the opinion of this
officer of the peace that the perfect hit would start with the purchase of a nondescript
automobile, then driving, with tools in tow, to the jobsite.
Once there, he would follow the mark until a routine was established and probably waste
the man in a public place with a blast from a double barreled sawed-off shotgun. Then he
would throw the gun down and drive away while the bystanders were in a state of mass
hysteria.
Even if he got caught with the shotgun in his hands, he argued, they would not be able to
prove that the blast from that shotgun was the murder weapon since shotguns are
untraceable. Obviously he has not kept in touch with new investigative procedures and
techniques, for it is now known that each shotgun makes an individual and distinct spread
pattern and the gun most certainly can be matched as the murder weapon.
"Why not hit the mark in his own home?" I inquired innocently.
"Oh, I'd never hit a guy in his own house," he answered, "Too many witnesses .. you know,
family ... nosy neighbors and the like."
What about a small caliber handgun with an attached silencer?" I asked.
"Well," he answered, "You would have to carry the handgun concealed, and that's against
the law. But the shotgun, if it were a legal sized shotgun, you could carry that right in the
window of your pickup truck on your gun rack. And I'd never touch a silencer. Boy! They'd
burn you if you got caught with a thing like that!"
I concluded the interview pretending to be in awe of his wisdom, while inside I was amazed
by the ignorance behind his reasoning. Why on earth, I thought, would a man worry about
breaking gun restrictions when he was en route to commit a murder.?
Yet, I felt comforted by his viewpoint. For his opinion probably represents the way a
goodly portion of law enforcement officers think.
There have been many times when an amateur has just walked up to his mark on the
street, blown him away in the midst of a crowd, ditched the gun in a garbage can and




gotten away with it. But the whole procedure lacks professionalism and the risks are much
too high.
The professional is on call to kill. He not only provides the employer with his gun, but with
his expert knowledge, discretion and ability to carry the assignment off without needlessly
endangering anyone but the mark.
The silencer is one of the most important tools a professional will ever have. The silenced
weapon, when fired, will not draw attention. Lack of attention means more time. Time
means getting the job done right. The panic, the pressure, is absent. There are many books
available on the subject of making your own silencers. Most of the methods used require
machine shop tools and the ability to use them with precision accuracy. This fact alone has
put a lot of would-be professionals out of the game, or at least back into the ranks of
amateurs.
On the following pages, you will learn how to make, without the need of special engineering
ability or expensive machine shop tools, a silencer of the highest quality and effectiveness.
The finished product attached to your 22 will be no louder than the noise made by a pellet
gun. Because it is so inexpensive (mine cost less than 20 dollars to make), you can easily
dispose of it after job use without any great loss. Future silencers will cost even less to
make, since many of the materials will not be used up in the first application.
Your first silencer will require possibly two days total to assemble (including drying time)
as you carefully follow the directions step by step. After you make a couple, it will become
so easy, so routine, that you can whip one up in just a few hours.
When it's done, no need to take it out in the woods to try it out. Just stack some
magazines or newspapers in a box and shoot to your hearts content in the garage. Believe
me, it's that good.
Just remember, as I mentioned before, to resight your gun after the silencer is in place.
And when you do go out in the woods, experiment to test how your range is affected. You
will lose some distance, and this must be taken into consideration later, when planning a hit.
DISPOSABLE SILENCER DIRECTIONS
The directions and photographs that follow show in explicit detail how to construct a
silencer for a Ruger 10/22 rifle. The same directions can be followed successfully to
construct a silencer for any weapon, with only the size of the drill rod used for alignment
changed to fit inside the dimension of the barrel.
The following items should be assembled before you begin:




l Drill rod, 7/32 inch (order from a machine shop if not obtained locally)
l One foot of 1/4 inch brake line from auto parts
l One quart of fiberglass resin with hardener
l One foot of 1-1/2 inch (inside diameter) PVC piping and two end caps
l One yard thin fiberglass mat
l One roll of masking tape
l One 1/8 inch drill bit
l One 3/16 inch drill bit
l Handful of rubber bands
l Three or four single inch razor blades
l One sheet 80 grit sandpaper
l Six small wood screws
l One box steel wool
Cut a 10-inch section from the brake line. See figure 1. Drill a set of 1/8 inch holes down
the length of the tube going in one side and out the other. The holes go all the way
through. Notice in the photograph that the holes begin 1-1/2 inches from the end of the
tube that fill on the gun.
Next, take a 3/16 inch drill bit and enlarge the holes. See figure 2.
Using masking tape and keeping the tape as free of wrinkles as possible, mask off about
six inches of the gun barrel and the end of the barrel. Use only masking tape. Duct tape is
too thick and would make for an improper fit. See figure 3.
Then place the drill rod down the barrel to keep the brake tube aligned. This perfect
alignment is extremely important.
If the drill rod you purchase is a little too large, as sometimes happens, put it in a drill and
using a file and sandpaper (80 grit), turn down the first six inches until it will fit inside the
gun barrel. I operate the drill from the floor with my foot, letting the rod spin between
my knees as I reduce the size. Check regularly until you achieve a perfect fit. If you grind
the rod too small, cut it off and start over. Fit must be tight with no play. See figure 4.
Wrap glass mat around the gun and tube three times. Secure it with string or rubber
bands every half inch to keep it tight and in place. The glass should be wrapped about two
inches behind the sight and up to the first hold on the tube. See figure 5.
Now mix the resin. About a shot glassful will do. Mix it two or three times hotter than the
package directions.
Brace the gun in an upright position and dab the resin into the glass cloth with a stubby




brush. Keep dabbling until the cloth is no longer white but has become transparent from
absorption of the resin. See figure 6.
As soon as the glass is tacky to touch without sticking (times differs according to weather
conditions and humidity), it is time to remove the piece from the barrel. Move fast!
First, take a razor blade and cut a notch behind the sight so the piece can be removed.
Then push on the glass to slide it off. Do not pull on the tube. See figure 7.
After removing the gun barrel, peel out the tape and allow it to finish hardening. You must
work quickly. If you let the glass harden too much on the gun, you will have to cut it off
and begin again.
Use a grinder and 80 grit sandpaper to smooth the hardening rough surface.
Next, grind the sides down about halfway, but do not grind past the point where the front
of the sight makes contact. See figure 8. Cut it down until the barrel fits easily and snugly.
Stand the glassed inner tube upright in a vise.
Mix a small amount of resin and use an eyedropper to fill in any interior holes or air
bubbles until the solid fiberglass is level with the steel tube end. This will give the junction
of the steel inner tube and glass coupling added strength. See figure 9.
Clean the eyedropper with acetone.
Cut the PVC tube to desired length. This one is eight inches. See figure 10.
Drill a large hole in the center of one cap, making it large enough to fit on the glass end to
the point where the sight makes contact.
Then drill small holes all around the cap at the bottom, as shown, with a 3/16 bit. See
figure 11.
Wrap masking tape around the cap to cover the holes. See figure 12.
Stand the cap with the inside tube inserted into a vise. Get the cap level and straight with
the tube.
Cut a lot of 1/2 inch square pieces of fiberglass matting and fill the cap with it up past the
level of the small holes.




Mix resin and pour it over the cut glass to a point about 1/4 inch above the holes and allow
it to dry before removing the cap from the vise. Don't worry about any resin that leaks
out around the base hole. Resin fills the small holes, making the tube strong enough to take
the blast when you fire the gun.
When the inside is hardened, turn the assembly over and add glass around the backside of
the cap for added strength as shown. Avoid getting resin in the opening where the barrel
fits. See figure 13.
Place the finished cap and inner tube on one end of the PVC tubing that has already been
cut to size. Center the inner tube as you look in the open end of the PVC.
Now drill a 1/8 inch hole in three place around the tube about 1/4 inch from the lip of the
cap.
Take the inner tube out and enlarge the holes in the cap to 3/16 inch. See figure 14.
Replace the inner tube and tighten it down with three small wood screws.
Trim the inside tube down until it extends about 1/2 inch beyond the outside PVC tube.
Sharpen one end of the drill rod to a point and use as a punch. Stand the tube up with the
solid cap down. Then drop the drill rod down the inner tube to get a true center mark. See
figure 15.
Find a drill bit a little larger than the outside diameter of the inner tube. Remove the cap
and drill the hole.
Replace the cap on the open end of the PVC and drill three 1/8 inch holes around the cap
as before for wood screw.
Grind off any inner tube that sticks out. make it flush with the face of the cap. See figure
16.
Unfold the sections of steel wool and roll between palms to make strands as shown.
Feed the strands into the silencer tube in a circular motion, packing the wool tight with a
stick. Do this until the tube is completely full. See figure 17.
Replace the end cap with the three screws. See figure 18.




Paint the finished silencer black and attach it to your weapons. You may want to ensure
proper alignment by wrapping tape or placing a hose clamp around the extension behind the
sight. See figure 19.
THE FINISHED PRODUCT
Your finished product is whisper-quiet, the way a silencer is supposed to be! It is
inexpensive, effective and reusable for over four hundred rounds before you will need to
repack.
This little tool is so easy to make that you will feel no pain when you crush it to bits and
throw it away.

Answer 2

Yeah, what the hitman said

(I think that guy is a post-man on the verge of a killing spree)
you had better give the 10 points to him!

Answer 3

I know a guy who made one- his wife got pissed at him and turned him in, he got 6 years in prison.

For one shot deal, wrap your hand and gun in home insulation- no louder that a fart.

Answer 4

Um, by using a potato

Answer 5

Don't be a fool..
You are going to get thrown into jail...

Answer 6

empty paper towel roll ,the rest is up too you.

Answer 7

How do I see the PICS?