Have replaced the heating elements and checked reading that they are at about 12-13 ohms each. Replaced both thermostats. Verified voltage coming into the hot water heater and to thermostats and heating elements are normal. So, water heater is receiving electric! When turn breaker off at breaker panel voltage = 0 and when turn back on, voltage around 240. There are no leaks and the water heater is about 7.5 years old. There is also no calcium buildup as I would have originally thought could have potentially been the problem. Again, new elements are giving proper ohms reading and support the size of the tank as they are 4500s. Total size of tank is 50 gallons.
2006-08-01 00:54:15 · 6 answers · asked by jeremyascent 1 in Home & Garden ➔ Maintenance & Repairs
You might want to make sure that you don't have a reversed polarity situation. You can do this by swapping the two hot wires on one of the thermostats (after killing the power of course) beyond that this is a stumper. If that doesn't work get an electrician (although you sound well versed yourself.)
Good Luck
2006-08-01 01:08:43 · answer #1 · answered by opie with an attitude 3 · 2⤊ 1⤋
Connect a light bulb in series with the element and measure the voltage across the bulb and the element separately, The voltages will add up to 240V if you have current. You see you havent established that you have current. Another way is to clamp a "tong" tester or "clamp meter" around the active wire and measure the current directly. If you don't get the voltages to add to 240 or no current on the meter then you have a break in the circuit despite all your tests. A trap many electricians fall into is to test voltages around a circuit between the active conductor and earth. If the nuetral conductor is faulty this will not be found this way. Hook your volt tester directly to the active and neutral and see if it is 240V. The nuetral could still be dogey so hook something with a load direct to the active and nuetral (like a light bulb again) and see if it lights.
Often there is a overtemperature cutout switch nearby the thermostat; usually round and stuck on the body of the tank. It will often have push on terminals. This may have tripped making an open circuit. Some of them have a little reset button that will need a push (power off of course). Either way you need to establish that you have continuity through the overtemp cutout.
Good Luck. you may contact me through the profile link if you wish.
2006-08-01 01:55:53 · answer #2 · answered by slatibartfast 3 · 0⤊ 0⤋
Does it get warm back after a minute? each and every so often the pipes are insulated at diverse ranges and as such water interior the pipes gets chilly in specific sections. i could be certain you insulate all your warm water pipes. in case you have a tankless water heater, you may nicely be experiencing the "chilly water sandwich". you may google to study up on it.
2016-10-01 08:23:29 · answer #3 · answered by ? 3 · 0⤊ 0⤋
If you know that much how come you don't know why it's broke ?
2006-08-01 01:15:17 · answer #4 · answered by emileyepearl53 2 · 0⤊ 0⤋
Time to call the pros.
2006-08-01 01:11:47 · answer #5 · answered by pycosal 5 · 0⤊ 0⤋
happens all the time.. you could have brought a defective thermostat.exchange it,,,,,,,,,,,
2006-08-01 01:04:18 · answer #6 · answered by tysgrandma99 4 · 0⤊ 0⤋