Removing axle?

Question

I've gotten my CV joint torn completely apart, balls, cage, etc, and need to get the axle that goes through the hub out in order to reinstall everything and drive my car again. Here are some pictures of what I'm talking about to help clear it up any more that I can. The area in the red is what I need to remove, followed by pictures of what it currently looks like (to give you guys an idea of what could be holding me up):

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b362/mkienbau/Picture91327.jpg
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b362/mkienbau/Picture91326.jpg
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b362/mkienbau/Picture91324.jpg
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b362/mkienbau/edited.jpg

Its a 2003 Mazda 6s Manual transmission with ABS.

The car IS supported on jack stands, I'm foolish, but not stupid. I removed it all because I just installed a new clutch and when pull the axle out of the transaxle the cv joint on the hub side (pictured) binded up on me, and I had to remove the cv boot in order to take the tension off the bearings and spline. Everything looks pristine, and all the balls have been marked to their respective position in the cage. They do not sell rebuilt axles for the 6 anywhere, I'd have to shell out $250 at the dealer with no core, and still no way to remove the current axle from the hub. I was essentially trying to rebuild the axle myself, but at this point its going to be towed in the morning to a local shop who will decide whether to keep up with what I've done or tell me to buy a new axle. If the latter is the case I'll have them replace it.

Well the plan is now to either A. Have the remanufactured axle I just found on ebay installed professionally barring installation estimate or B. Remove the steering knuckle with the remaining part of the hub still installed, have them press that out, and press the reman'ed one in.

I've already removed the axle from the tranny during my clutch change, so this *should* be a breeze installing the new one compared to that ordeal. Sound safe and reasonable?

Answer 1

Why did you tear it apart? At this point, if you are trying to save it, you will want to put all of the bearings back in that you can. The last one or two...maybe three....you will need to turn the wheel all of the way to the left. It will take some pressure but you can force the wheel as far as you can to get the last few in. Disconnect the tie rod end from the hub to do this. If all else fails...go to the part store and spend 100 bucks on a rebuilt axle. Good luck...sorry for your troubles.

Answer 2

Nothing holds the end of the shaft in the hub except the spindle nut ( which you have already removed ). The lower control arm must be separated to swing the steering knuckle far enough out of the way for the axle to be removed intact. Obviously, since the CV joint has already come apart, it can be removed in pieces ( without disassembly of the lower control arm ) but, putting the new axle back into place will not be possible without separating the control arm. Once the steering knuckle is free, thread the nut back onto the end of the spindle and use a heavy hammer to drive the splineshaft out of the hub. If this does not work, removal of the complete hub ( separating the upper control arm too ) may be necessary to take the hub to a shop equipped with a press and have it pressed out. If your CV joint came completely apart, its VERY likely that your splineshaft is seized in the hub due to the high heat created by your disintegrating CV joint.

Answer 3

You'll need the car on a safe jack stand, and don't ever depend on just a hydraulic jack. The lower ball joint needs to be taken away from the lower control arm, and the whole spindle/rotor and bearing combo will swing out so you can pull the whole axle ***'y out. You might want to think about a re manufactured axle assembly instead of a trying to put the joint back together. Once you get the bolt or nut loose on the lower ball joint, just whack the outside of the ball joint with a hammer and it should just pop loose.

Answer 4

OK FIRST YOU NEED TO PUT A JACK STAND UNDER THE FRAME RAIL OR BODY RAIL BECAUSE YOU ARE GOING TO HAVE TO SEPARATE THE LOWER BALL JOINT 17MM NUT WHERE YOUR JACK IS AFTER TAKING THE NUT OFF HIT THE SPINDLE WHERE THE BALL JOINT STUD COMES THRU DO NOT HIT THE BALL JOINT STUDS AFTER THAT THERE IS A 17MM BOLT THAT GOES THRU THE LOWER CONTROL ARM AND WISH BONE REMOVE THAT TAKE A HAMMER AND PUNCH DRIVE THE OUTER CV JOINT THRU THE HUB IT MAY TAKE A COUPLE OF GOOD SHOTS TAKE A PRY BAR OR BIG SCREW DRIVER AND WHERE THE AXLE GOES INTO TRANSMISSION PUT THE TIP IN BETWEEN AND POP OUT THE AXLE FLUID MAY COME OUT ONCE THAT'S POPPED PRY DOWN ON THE LOWER ARM YOU SHOULD THEN BE ABLE TO REMOVE THE AXLE TO REPLACE PRY THE ARM DOWN INSERT AXLE AT AN ANGLE HOLDING SPINDLE OUT OF WAY LINE UP THE INNER JOINT INTO TRANS USING A PIECE OF WOOD OVER OUTER JOINT TAP IT IN WITH A HAMMER THE PLACE OUTER JOINT INTO SPINDLE IF IT'S TIGHT PUT THE SOCKET OVER THE AXLE HOLE AND TAP IT WITH A HAMMER THEN INSTALL BALL JOINT AND WISH BONE BOLT HOPE IT HELPS


GET A REBUILT AXLE

Answer 5

Now that you have destroyed that Axle,Take A Punch center it over the end if the outer tulip (part still in Hub) and hit it with a hammer to free it up.The Go buy a new drive axle cause this on is worthless.

Answer 6

do not try to repair the one you have it wont work to get it out now that it is no good just hit it with a hammer and drive it through the hub and to install the new one go with answer #4 he explained very well