my1967 Chevy Camaro, 350 SB is broken off where one of the 2 starter bolts go, what can I do??

Question

My question is, how do I go about fixing the broken starter bolt hole on the block? The part of my engine block that is broke off is colsest to the firewall and isn't completely broke off. But I am afraid that I could possibly break that corner of the block off to where there won't even be a hole anymore!! Then what could you do? I don't want to have to pull the motor out either, so is there any way to fix this w/-out doing so???? Any help is much appreciated.

Answer 1

Drill it out and tap it and use a bigger bolt

Answer 2

in case you ever took precalculus or another math class which covers residences of applications, you the thanks to verify the area of the functionality. between the pink flags to look out for is once you divide by 0. on your expression, even as x = 3, the denominator is 0. to that end, the area is each and every selection beside 3. regrettably, the selection you attempt to plug in (x = 3) is the purely selection that would not artwork in this functionality. to make certain this common hand, you0 can graph this functionality on a TI-80 3. in case you zoom in on the point of the graph at x = 3, you'll locate there's a sparkling spot there! it is because, as reported above, there purely isn't a cost of the expression at x = 3. you should claim, properly it feels like the answer might want to be 6, searching on the graph. this theory of what the answer "might want to be" is what limits are all about. The values of the functionality on the left and proper of x = 3 all pass in the route of 6 as you capture up with and closer. So we are saying the reduce as x is going to three is 6. So regardless of the very undeniable actuality that it's not technically the answer, 6 is your proper selection. 0 purely isn't staggering in any experience. the very proper answer is to assert that the expression is undefined at x = 3. This situation illustrates why 0/0 is named indeterminate. in this example, 0/0 in a way equals 6. the theory that 0/0 can equivalent something is actual the essence of calculus.

Answer 3

If there is still enough thread to screw a stud in, and you have enough room, do that and hold the starter on with a nut and washer. I would use brass or stainless and matching nut so there are no future rust issues. Put some Loctite on the threads that go into the block and just snug the stud up. The Loctite will hold it in place. Be sure to use the bracket from the rear of the starter to the block. This will keep the starter from trying to move and put strain on the front mounting area.

Answer 4

There is a cast iron welding rod{for arc wielding} out there that works VERY well. You''ll have to get the starter out of the way, and I'm not sure if it could be done with the engine in the car either. Maybe a shop can farm-out the welding work?

Answer 5

From what I can understand from your post the outer most bolthole from the block itself has begun to break away. If that is the case then the only solution I can think of is to find someone who can weld cast iron. Even then it's touch and go as to whether it can be done with the engine still in the vehicle.

Even if it is successfully welded my guess is that it won't be a permanent fix as cast iron is a very difficult metal to weld in such a manner as to ensure longevity.

Answer 6

If this was my car (which I do lot of my own work) I have it taken to a garage, be safe not sorry. You may spend some money but you won't have to pull the engine and all the work that goes with it. One day in the garage beats a week or so of your own labor and all the time you'll be saying why did I do that.

Answer 7

I would suggest J-B WELD but you have to be careful and remember to put the bolt in the hole and kinda mold the j-b weld around it. and see if you can get some arond on the block to protect the other bolt hole.

Answer 8

drill a hole in the bolt and then reverse tap the bolt then remove the bolt by screwing in a new bolt. good luck..