the right way to bleed abs braks on a 1996 old can not get any fluid out of the right rear?

Answer 1

I can't believe the answers some people will throw out there, some would be downright amusing if they weren't so dangerous.
If you were able to get fluid from the left rear but not the right side, that eliminates the need for a computer to bleed the brakes, it would be the same for all the wheels. All systems, including ABS and traction control will revert to a standard operation in the event of some electronic failure anyway.
NEVER, and I mean NEVER should you open a bleed screw and let the system "gravity bleed". Brake fluid absorbs water like a sponge, especially in humid areas, which causes the machined surfaces inside calipers and wheel cylinders to rust.
Taking the "plug" out, (I'm assuming he means bleed screw) may be a step in the right direction, if it is plugged it will cause your problem, but simply removing it does not solve your problem.
And finally, bleeding your brakes at the master cylinder does nothing to get the air out of the brake lines, it just gets the air out of the master cylinder.
Now to address your "problem". Chances are the bleed screw is plugged up, and the remedy is quite simple, buy a new bleed screw and replace the one already in the car. Chances are it's not something you'll find at your local parts store, unless you buy the whole caliper/wheel cylinder. (You didn't say if it was disc or drum brakes on the back.) try the dealer. They are relatively inexpensive, a couple of dollars each. If that does not solve your problem, remove the brake line and see if fluid comes out when the brake pedal is pressed. If it does, the caliper/wheel cyl is frozen or damaged, and needs to be replaced anyway. if not, inspact the brake line back to where it originates. look for dents or kinks in the line.
As for bleeding the brakes, it is best done with the help of another person, the car should not be running. Make sure your master cylinder is full. Start with the wheel farthest from the master cylinder first and work towards the master cylinder. Fill a clean bottle with about 8 ounces of new brake fluid. Attach a piece of vacuum hose (available at your local parts store) to the bleed screw, and put the other end in the brake fluid. Have your assistant pump the brake pedal once and hold it to the floor, open the bleed screw and let the fluid and air flow into the container. close the bleed screw and release the brake pedal, it will draw fluid from the master cylinder. do this at least twice for each wheel, always remembering to add brake fluid to the master cylinder after each wheel. after the last wheel is done, look for the antilock brake control, it is close to the master cylinder. Bleed this the same way, then finally the master cylinder. IF you have traction control, bleed that prior to the ABS control, but I don't think that was an option.
Remember, press and hold brake pedal, open bleed screw, close bleed screw, and release brake pedal, always in that order, it gets the air out, much of the old brake fluid, and keeps the air out.

Answer 2

the best and easiest way to bleed all brakes is at the master cylinder pump up your brakes and bleed the lines at the master cylinder

Answer 3

Let them bleed on their own. Just crack the bleed screws and let it sit. DON'T pump the brakes when you do this or you'll get more air into it.

Answer 4

many new carrs require a scantool to operate the abs bleed procedure

Answer 5

maybe take plug out of brake caliper could be stopped up

Answer 6

Some gm cars you need a computer to do it.