This method will work 80% of the time. (Sorry,...nothing is perfect).
... You first paint the ceiling with a thick nap roller or brush and leave about 1/4 inch from the wall, unpainted. (i.e.) paint the ceiling first, but stay about 1/4 inch away from the edge of the wall. This will leave a 1/4 inch gap on the ceiling between where you stop the ceiling paint, and the wall. This 1/4 inch area will get painted last.
... NOTE > Even if you had not intended to paint the ceiling, 'DO IT'!!!. This is the only way to get a straight edge where the wall meets the ceiling, and everyone I have ever talked to who painted a room, but did not do the ceiling, regretted it later. A freshly painted ceiling makes the difference between a nice looking room, and a 'GREAT' looking room, after you are done. Trust me on this!!!
... Next, paint the wall, and also paint that 1/4 inch gap on the ceiling the same color as the wall color. Don't worry about trying to make a straight line on the ceiling, just make sure that the wall and the 1/4 inch gap is covered with the wall color paint. (I know this sound crazy, but it's the only way to get a straight edge on any ceiling, not just stucco or textured ceilings).
... After both the wall and the 1/4 inch ceiling gap have dried, use 3-M brand, (the Blue roll), masking tape, and put the tape on the wall, aligning it as close to the top edge of the wall, where it meets the ceiling, as possible, and making sure the tape creates a straight edge along the length of the wall, where it meets the ceiling.
... Now go back with the white ceiling paint, and paint over the area where you overlapped the wall color 1/4 inch on the ceiling, and make sure you cover the edge of the tape with the white ceiling paint.
... If the wall color is a dark color, you made need two coats of the white ceiling paint to cover this 1/4 inch overlap. If it takes two coats, you will want to take the tape off, and put new tape on, between coats. See the comments below of taking off the tape when the paint is still too wet, (bleed), or when it is dry, (chip). If you leave the same tape on for the second coat, the first coat dries, and could adhere to the tape = chipping.
... Now when you remove the tape there is a straight line on the wall, right at the point that it meets the ceiling. This is the straight edge you were looking for.
Here's some other tips on getting a straight edge using masking tape...
... After you have the tape on the wall with a straight edge as close to the ceiling as possible, run a hair dryer along the tape for about 60 seconds, (see comment on 12-16 inches below), and using the back, flat side of your fingernail, press the straight edge tight to the surface. What this does is semi-melt the adhesive on the tape, so it will stick to the surface, (wall), better.
... Don't paint at the straight edge with a full brush of paint. After dipping the brush into the paint so that you have only about a 1/4 inch of paint on the tip, drag/wipe one side of the brush against the lip of the paint can to remove excess paint on that side of the brush.
... With this 1/2 brush of paint, make your first 'swipe' of the brush in an area that is away from the straight edge, in this case since you are painting with the ceiling white paint, you can make you first 'swipe' right on the ceiling. Do not go directly to the straight edge of the tape with a full, (or in this case 1/2), brush of paint.
...After you have made your first 'swipe' in an area away from the straight edge, the paint that remains on the brush, is distributed more evenly within the bristles, and it is then that you can paint the straight edge of the tape and that 1/4 inch overlap of the wall color on the ceiling, with the paint that is left in the brush.
... Do not angle the brush 'AT' the edge of the tape, but 'AWAY' from the edge of the tape. If you paint with the bristles pointing at the edge of the tape, it may force paint under the lip of the tape, even if you have a tight seal because of the 'hair drying'. In the case of a ceiling, the paint brush tip should be vertical, (i.e.) point up towards the ceiling, not horizontal, meaning pointed at the wall.
... It's best to do this in 12-16 inch sections, meaning... 'hair dryer', run fingernail along edge, and paint about 12-16 inches at a time. This is because the heated adhesive loses it's 'staying power' as it cools, so if you hair dry and fingernail an entire 6-8 foot area, and then go back to paint, the last couple of feet will already be cool, and could be pulling away, leaving a gap for paint to seep in.
... Lastly, remove the tape 3/4 of the way through the drying time, while it is still flexible. I never wait until it is fully dried. See comment below.
...To determine 3/4 dry, make a test patch of paint on the surface you are painting, (ceiling) and check it every 15 minutes. If it takes 90 minutes to dry, than 3/4 is 68 minutes (90 X .75). You could also keep track of drying time when you painted the ceiling in step 1
... If you remove the tape when the paint is still too wet, it will 'bleed' under the edge as you pull it off.
... If you remove the tape when it is fully dry, it will chip away from the straight edge because the paint is adhering to the tape.
Also remember that you painted in 12-16 inch sections, so only remove the tape 12-16 inches at a time, allowing an extra minute or so, (depending on how long it took you to hair dry, run fingernail, and paint each 12-16 inch section) for each section to reach the 3/4 drying time.
If you mess up the first time, (maybe not enough heat from hair dryer to semi-melt adhesive, or paint dried to fast and adhered to the tape as you were removing it, it's easy to do over.
... Just re-paint the 1/4 inch of ceiling and edge of the wall with the wall color. Allow to dry.
... Mask off on wall, as close to ceiling edge as possible, making sure of a straight line along the wall.
... Re-paint using the ceiling white paint, per suggestions above.
2006-07-18 05:47:03
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answer #1
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answered by vets1son 1
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