Hi, got a 1991 Buick Skylark.?

Question

I've changed plugs and electric coils but after driving a while it jerks and stalls-any clues. I've changed fuel filter as well. It'll start after it sits for a few hours and run beautifully, better than ever. Then after about 50 miles the 'check engine' light comes on and it starts to jerk again then it cuts off again. Then it won't start at all again. The mechanics here are killing me. I don't know if I can support me and my car for too much longer. I hope someone on the planet has an answer. Thank you all.

Answer 1

i got it you may have a bad ignition module you will need to check it for spark when it quits as that is the only time its broke pull off a wire off a plug put a nail or something in the wire and hold ti 1/2 inch away from something metal have someone crank it no spark=bad module or pickup it isn't a bad thing to change both but try the module first

Answer 2

It would be helpful if you could provide the diagnostic codes stored in the computer when the Check Engine light comes on. But based on what you have already said, I think that probably the Mass Airflow Sensor is failing or is contaminated. Easy to retrieve the codes. no special equipment is necessary for that year and model. A paper-clip (NOT colored or plastic coated) straightened out into a "U" shape, and inserted into the "A" and "B" cavities of the diagnostic link beneath the dashboard, located either on the driver's side or in the center under the heater-A/C controls. Then turn on the key, but don't start it. Watch the Check engine light. It will begin to flash. It will flash once, then pause then flash twice, then a longer pause. it will do this three times (this is code 12), then move on to the next code. It may flash (for example) flash-flash-flash, then pause, then flash-flash-flash-flash, (Code 34) then pause, then repeat twice more (total of three times), then move onto the next code. When it flashes 12 again, it has displayed all the codes stored. Turn off the key and remove your paper-clip. You can either buy a do-it-your self repair manual with the codes and repairs necessary at an auto-parts house for less than $20.00, or go the Library and go the reference section and locate your information there.
NOTE--- The codes displayed are only the circuit affected, Not necessarily the component in need of repair. It is used by the technician to locate the specific area for testing. ALSO note---to clear the codes, one only needs to disconnect the battery for 1-2 minutes.
Good hunting!!

Answer 3

I don't know what the other mechanics have done but it does sound like the ignition module but I don't think that your car has a distributor you should have three coils that sit on top of the ignition module, the coils are screwed with the module to a plate and then the plate is bolted to the engine either on the front or on the top of the engine all you have to do is follow the spark plug wires from the spark plug and they should lead you right to the coil pack, let me know what you find out

Answer 4

What have the local mechanics done for you so far? What parts were replaced? Sounds like your control module is getting hot and cutting out the engine. When you replaced the coils, did you notice any blue burn marks underneath? Usually the module located in the distributor is lubed with an electrical grease to transfer heat away from itself. If this coating is gone, so is the module. I would replace and coat with new dielectric grease.
good luck

Answer 5

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Answer 6

try the harmonica balance . try that or replace the electric board attached to the core packs or the core packs itself. injection might need cleaning. bad /plugs wires . or even wrong fire order. looking Internet to fire right fire order. fuel pump. check oil stick to make sure you see no White milky stuff on it . if that's the case the engine is done for.

Answer 7

run a code on it and maybe it will tell you whats the matter,the check engine light doesn have to be on ,it still will pick it up if something is wrong.