How do you level a one section slate pool table?

Question

I install pool tables. Lots of pool tables, but I now have to level a one piece pool table. I tried leveling under the slate but everything goes haywire. I was told by my brother who worked for a vending company to just shim the legs. Is this right?

Answer 1

Don't shim under the legs.....that is only done in bars. Questions&Answers has some good info. Follow the link and you should find info on table leveling.

I have leveled granite tables, flat steel, huge rolls, machines, shalves, etc., to within .001". Anything can be leveled. Good luck.

Answer 2

Pool table slate
Number of pieces
1-piece slate is cumbersome and difficult to level. It is generally only ½" in thickness and may warp, preventing a flat surface. Many coin-operated and very inexpensive tables use one-piece slate.
3-piece slate section is better because it allows for more precise leveling. With three different sections of slate, each can be leveled individually to achieve an overall level table, allowing better play. 3-piece slate is available in several different thickness including 3/4", 7/8", and 1".
Slate thickness
3/4" slate, when in the 3-piece configuration, is generally used to give the convenience of leveling and handling while keeping the cost of the table as low as possible. This slate is usually, but not always, used on less expensive tables.
7/8" slate is often used as a substitute for true 1" slate. It comes only in three pieces and it is hard for the untrained eye to tell the difference between 7/8" and 1". A table with this slate should be a little less expensive than a table with 1" slate. This can also be a good indicator that a manufacturer is trying to save money on the construction of the table.
1" thick slate is the only slate approved by the Billiard Congress of America for tournament use. It comes only in 3 pieces. It will provide the truest and most accurate play of any of the three slate thicknesses. It is the very best slate, as it is the only slate guaranteed by the slate mines not to warp. Although it is only slightly more expensive than 7/8", it is 12.5% heavier. The weight of the table has a direct impact on how true a ball rolls and rebounds.
Frames
Tables are made with a wood framing attached directly to the bottom of each piece of slate or without any slate framing at all. Tournament level tables must have a wood framing attached directly to the slate. When inspecting a table for purchase, be sure to ask about the framing, since the cloth on a pool table generally covers the slate, and it will not be obvious to the naked eye.
Unframed slate sits directly on the frame of the table. Some table manufacturers use a "slate frame liner" - a horizontal board that attaches directly to the top of the table frame, not the slate. One problem with this is that when shims are used to level this type of table, the slate becomes separated from the board. A more serious problem is that the slate is only screwed to the board instead of directly to the table frame.
Framed slate tables have a wood liner attached directly to the bottom of each piece of slate. This liner is commonly made of particleboard, plywood, or solid wood. The slate framing gives a solid, secure location for stapling down the cloth. The best line is solid wood, as it holds staples much better than the alternatives.
Attachment of slate to the table
The slate should be screwed directly to the wood frame of the table. In addition to screws around the perimeter of the slate, there should be screws located on both sides of each slate joint in the middle of the playing surface. These "center slate screws" help eliminate movement of the slate if the table settles over time. The center slate screws also function as additional attachment points for use in leveling.