First, call to get the utility companies to mark where their lines are. In Missouri, it is 1-800-dig-rite, check in the phone book blue pages (government) for your state clearing house number or directions if they don't have that kind of program.
Next, mark the area you want to put your pond in by driving wooden stakes in even intervals. Start with the major dimensions, and then identify major shape deviations you might want in the shape.
In placing it, you will want to give thought to filling or accidental release. If the pond retaining wall gave way, would the short flood damage your house or someone else's property? If your house is resting on ground that is higher than the pond, would you want to channel rainwater runoff (from rain gutter spouts, perhaps) to the pond? Is there enough other land where rainwater runoff would flow naturally to the pond site? Your primary purpose could be esthetic, but it could also serve a hydrological purpose in capturing and utilizing water from times of heavy rain.
Then, get some metal rods or poles and pound them into the ground to discover where the shallow rock layers are within your staked-out area. It may make you rethink your position and shape. If there are rocks, dig sample holes to determine if there are just scattered rocks or rock shelfs or layers. Solid rock layers will be helpful to define the bottom of your pond. Broken or scattered rocks, on the other hand, are inconveniences or opportunities for variation and decoration when you excavate more fully.
Make careful measurements of the land gradient. When you start pulling out dirt, you will want to build up a berm on the low side with the dirt you remove. If you have a strong or solid rock base that you use as a floor, the dirt that lies atop it will be moved to form the walls or lip of the low end of the pond. If the rocks are loose, then pile them first for the wall and the dirt then to pack on top. Save out, or sort out gravel or small rocks to put on top of the plastic layers you will spread to form a retaining floor.
Having formed the pit and heaped and shaped the retaining wall, you will want to provide for a spillway or other surplus water release features like pipes through the retaining wall. Just because you have a pipe, that doesn't mean you don't still want a spillway. A really heavy rain can overwhelm the pipe's release and once a breaching point is found by the water you are daming up, the water flow will erode the retaining wall and empty your pond.
Line the bottom half or 2/3rds of the pond for sure. This will be a minimum retention level. Be careful to make that line level around the pond. Then cover the plastic (or some use a tightly packed clay to do this and others do a combination) with a soft and protective sand or rounded gravel. You want something that covers the floor to protect it and you want something the display a uniform floor surface. These are not necessarily the same things. By uniform, I don't mean of equal depth or smoothness, but picture it as a standard background upon which you place interesting or decorative placement of larger rocks or logs (careful to make the foundation strong enough so as to not punch a hole in your plastic or clay non-permiable layer).
If rains are infrequent, you will want the pond deep, reducing the surface area and minimizing the evaporation. If rains are frequent, then a shallower pond will be more often replentished. You will want some runoff in order to freshen the water. You don't want the pond to become your own little dead sea, do you?
Good luck.
2006-07-13 06:07:43
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answer #1
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answered by Rabbit 7
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2017-01-18 14:37:24
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answer #2
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answered by ? 4
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There are tons of sources on the web for this
Here's just one
Go to http://bickal.home.mchsi.com/diycd.htm
also go to
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/Product/Shop.cfm?N=62728
1. Check your local ordinances, many towns require fenced yards for ponds over a few inches and permits if you have to bring electric out there...
Basically you have to dig a hole in the ground that is shaped the way you want. As with anything some planning is a good idea. Draw it out on graph paper.
It is a good idea to have a "shelf" that runs around the pond to put plants on. You need to decide if you are goign to leave the fish out there for the winter depending on where you live it will have to be deeper if you leave them out there. Here in the Chicago area it has to be 2 1/2 to 3ft deep to do that. Basically it needs to be deeper than what the frost line is in your area. If you have an extremly convoluted shape a butly rubber liner is the most flexible and lasts the longest. But EPDM liners are just fine. Then you have to decide on the type of filter you want which is really directly related to how much time you want to put into this.
Also don't forget your electric bill will go up because you will be running filter 24/7. Ive been a aquarium hobbyist for more than 30yrs and have a 3000gal pond in in my yard for last ten yrs. This is a really expansive topic, please feel free to contact me via email and I'll share my experience.
2006-07-13 06:03:59
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answer #3
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answered by ? 3
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i made a pond in the shape of texas...let me tell you the steps i did.use a hose or rope to lay out the shape you want on the ground.make a concrete collar to uphold the edging stone if you want them.then dig out the middle shape down at least 18 inches for the top shelf level,pack and then dig out the bottom.depending on your soil type,you may need to reinforce the sides with something like newspaper to hold up the sides while you are placing the liner in the whole.start filling with water and shape and smooth the liner as it fills.cover the edge of the liner with flagstone NOT limestone.good luck!email me with questions,i'll be glad to help!
2006-07-13 05:39:56
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answer #4
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answered by tinaluvsglass 3
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The backyard is a spot that not all the homes can presume , If you want to make your personal dream garden then select https://tr.im/k21A4 , Ideas 4 Landscaping for beginners and experts.
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2016-04-24 01:45:47
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answer #5
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answered by ronnie 3
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A cheap and easy way to get your liner....call a pool store/installer and ask for them to save you a liner that has been replaced with a new one from someones pool.
They will gladly give you the old one so they will not have to dispose of it.
Another good reason to use a pool liner is because it is a lot thicker than the pool liners you can buy.
Good Luck
2006-07-13 09:06:04
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answer #6
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answered by johnnyquest 3
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Decide if you want fish in it, which will change the methods you can use.
If you do want fish, don't use bare concrete, it will poison them. You can either buy a butyl liner cut to the shape you want, or concrete around the hole, and then cover it with something like g4. If you need any more info, email me.
2006-07-13 05:41:05
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answer #7
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answered by fishy 3
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There were so many woodworking plans with this collection and you will not believe this but there are over thousands plans in the one package deal. Go here https://tr.im/6p4J8
This is really something to find that many all together. For someone like me who is just really starting to get involved with woodworking this was like letting me loose in a candy store and telling me I could have anything I wanted. That was my dream when I was a kid.
2016-05-01 23:49:36
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answer #8
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answered by ? 3
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as you don't say what type of pond you want ie wildlife, fish, koi, etc have a lok at the sites listed below they give useful information
you can use concrete providing it is fiberglassed in the inside or use a liner this will prevent the lime in the concrete poisoning the wildlife or fish
if you want further advice email me with your email address as I have problems replying to answers emails
2006-07-13 19:11:35
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answer #9
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answered by bbh 4
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The first thing you should do is get the phone book out and call a professional pool installer. Its too big a project for someone to "experiment" on in their backyard.
2006-07-13 05:37:17
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answer #10
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answered by trucker3977 4
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