Help... I was giving my hermit crab its daily misting when it...?

Question

it just came almost completely out of its shell like it was dead... I have heard that the exoskelton of a hermit crab looks like a dead crab but i have no clue what is happening to my crab. I was misting it and it would come farther and farther out of its shell but not move the slightest bit. I saw at the pet store what and exoskelton looked like when it was molting and this is what my crab looked like, just in its shell still. I have no idea how to tell if it is dead or alive, molting or not. My crab lives in a 20 gallon glass aquarium with two other crabs the smae size as it. They have water always avaible to them as well as food. I have been noticing though that my crab has been hiding a little bit more often.Could someone be generous and help me determine this please? Thanks!

I also still have the refund on my crab for a couple more days

Well i misted my crab again to see if it was moving or not an dit came all of the way out and I dont see anything in the shell I think it is dead

Answer 1

He's probably ill or dying. I don't believe there is anything you can do at this point. Sorry.

Answer 2

Maybe you should give it a little time... if it's an exoskeleton you can look and see that your crab is still in it's shell... just prob'ly pulled in real tight. If it's your crab's body it could be looking for a bigger shell or maybe it died. I have a hermit crab in my fish tank and occasionally I see a little skeleton on the bottom of the tank. But the crab has just shed it's skin and is fine.

I hope the little guy is ok!

Answer 3

If he's been hiding more often than normal, then he probably is just molting. All crustaceans are extremely vunerable when they molt, and that's why your little guy is hiding.

Answer 4

your crab needs a bigger shell, put a bunch of slightly bigger shells in with it and let it chose one

Answer 5

My big question is what are you misting it with? Is it de-chlorinated water OR tap water.. because if the water is chlorinated you are burning it's gills and it is then dying. Also over misting causes bacterial infection and then death.

Do you smell a strong scent of rotting fish? I mean strong stinking rotting fish flesh.. if so it is dead but IF NOT then it is not dead (yet).

If it has in fact molted do not touch it move it or anything just leave it be and possibly take the other crabs out and ISO them so they do not bother the molter. The skin would be hollow and the eyes would look clear if it was the exo. Do not remove the exo because the crab must be able to eat it.

Since this is a surface molt I am assuing the tank contdition are way off if he didnt burry himself to molt and if you have to mist. Surface molting is a sure sign of stress and wrong tank conditions.

Now questions would follow like what kind of substrate do you use? Sand or coco-fiber? Or dreaded gravel or bark/woodchips which is incorrect.. is it warm enough in there.. temps should range 77 degrees F to 83 degrees F and humidity must be kept around 76%-85% relative.. other wise they will suffocate. Misting only is a temporary fix and does nothing but cause other underlying issues.

If you place 2 large water sources in the tank using either large reptile dishes or gladware/tupperware type food storage containers of BOTH fresh and oceanic/marine salt de-chlorinated water they will get enough humidity and have the proper kinds of water. It is a must that they have the proper salt water.. but do not use table or food salt it must be aquarium salt.

he is a bit on molting ...


A land Hermit Crab is a crustacean who in order to grow needs to shed his old Exoskeleton which is hard and rigid and does not grow.

Pre-Molt signs:
He will tend to hang out by the water pools a bit more, this is when he is "stocking" up on water helping to soften him up and make slipping out of his old Exoskeleton a bit easier. Your crab will also eat a lot more; you may even witness him eating at odd hours of the day at this time. He may also become lethargic and seem to mope around a bit. Our crabs have also gone shell shopping at this time and have even gotten aggressive while doing so.
A crabs coloring may get dull and ashy and you may notice his eyes become cloudy, sometimes if a crab had lost a limb you may see a jelly like protrusion it is a gel limb, do not be alarmed but the time for molting is very near.
You may choose to ISO the crab, this is up to you and you will need to judge the space and other crabs as to if this is what you need to do. If you do make sure it has the proper temps and humidity levels and continues to offer daily fresh foods and water throughout the molting process.

Molting:
Normally Hermit Crabs will burry themselves in the sand or other substrate to molt. (There are also times when they will feel comfortable enough to molt within the confines of a hidey area or even right on the surface.) Now when a hermit crab begins this process it is very important that you do not touch or disturb him in anyway unless absolutely necessary. During this process the crab is the most vulnerable to stress and to succumbing to death.
You may even get to watch your crab through the glass if he is buried! You may see him flinch or rock as to help his Exo split so he may slip out of it. He is working very hard to help himself grow. Also at this time he will re-generate lost limbs, antennae and even eyes!

Post molting:
When he has slipped out of his Exo you will see it hanging out of his shell, it will definitely look like a dead crab, do not remove it or disturb the area. The crab is soft and pink deep within his shell resting. Very soon he will begin to eat the old Exo, do not take this from him, as it provides necessary nutrients and calcium to help his new Exo harden and re-gain its color and luster.
At this time if the crab has been is ISO make sure to continue to offer fresh foods and waters even though he may not seem interested now, he will be soon enough. When he regains strength and starts to venture out a bit more, if there are leg pieces or pinchers left make sure to crush those and re-offer that on his food dish, he will eat them.
You can also offer a soothing post-molt diet of organic bananas and organic honey together with fresh organic plain yogurt. This will help sooth him and give him some extra energy. Make sure to offer a good variety of fresh fruits and veggies and also extra protein at this time to help him get strong to either return to the main tank or to become an active colony member again.

Small crabs molt more often sometimes as often as very two weeks larger crabs molt every year or less.

TIME FRAME:
The actual molting process from beginning to end can take anywhere from 3 days to 3 or more months. Patience and TLC is the key to make it a success. Once the old EXO is off and he begins to munch it, the molting process is close to the end.
Keep him in ISO (if you have used an ISO) and offer him a high calcium, high protien, color rich diet. Like mentioned above the bannana smoothy right now would be perfect for energy.
One your crab is walking about and acting almost normal again and his coloring has evened out.. then it is safe to either let him back into the main tank or allow free range again. Keep a watchful eye for a few days to make sure.

And here is the caresheet on proper care/keeping...
Land Hermit Crabs are portrayed as easy to care for, cheap and novelty pets. This is not really true! There are some basics that you need to know before actually buying your first Hermit Crabs. Read on below and then you can decide if this is the pet for you.

Sea sponges:
Natural, un-bleached and un-dyed sea sponges only. Non-man made. These can be found in pet stores and in some department stores as well.
They need to be rinsed and dried to keep bacteria and uglies away, so have an extra or two so you can rotate them. Boiling will also sterilize them.
Thermometer and Hygrometer:
Land Hermit Crabs, breathe through modified gills therfore they must have the proper humidty in order to breathe as well as the proper temperatre in order to thrive.
You need to monitor all of the tank conditions. One for the temp and one for the humidity will get you started. Keep them as close to substrate level as possible since that is where the crabs are most of the time.
76 - 80 degrees and everyone will be fine. Do not allow the Hermit Crabs to get cold for long periods or they can die. Humidity ranges should be around 76-80% relative, sustained.
With in these levels your crabs and their home will be a happy and active one. If it gets too warm, you can always prop up the lid, same if the humidity gets too high, prop the lid up.To add moisture/humidity add an extra moist sponge or even a bubbler in their water dish.

Housing:
Glass tank with lid (aquarium with glass lid is best) Can use a quality Kritter Keeper with saran wrap over the lid.
Substrate:
Options include... Calci-Sand, Sterilized playsand, Aragonite Sand, Moist coco-fiber bedding, Crushed coral.
You can mix and match, have seperate areas and containers, it is up to you. Remember there needs to be enough substrate to fully cover the "floor" or the tank. Deep enough for your largest crab to fully submerse or cover it's self. The substrate also needs to be pretty smooth, meaning little to no jaged edges to scrape or injure the Hermit Crabs Exoskeleton prior to, during and after molting.
It also must be insect and chemical free. Human or animal grade not the kind that is used for construction or masonry.
Light:
Hermit Crabs require 12 hours of sunlight each day. This can be a combo of natural and artificial light. The normal aquarium hood light can be good enough.
Once you are ready to get more advanced or need more heating you can buy a bi-light that has both dayglo and nightglo bulbs.. for heat and light during the day and heat during the night. Always try to have full spectrum when possible so the Hermit Crabs get enough of the proper lighting.


Water basics:
Use only de-chlorinated or bottled water for everything Hermit Crabs related. The chemicals in tap water (chlorine and heavy metals are toxic to Hermit Crabs also will burn their modified gills.)
You can treat tap water by using a water conditioner for fish, make sure their drinking water doesn't have stress-coat in it though.
Land Hermit Crabs must have both fresh and salt water for drinking. The salt should be obtained from a good aquarium store or pet department, reading the directions carefully.
The fresh water should be de-chlorinated as well. Both dishes should be deep enough for your largest Hermit Crab to fully submerse it's self, while at the same time provide items like shells, smooth stones for your smaller crabs to use to get in and out of the water. One or both water sources can have bubblers or sponges, it is up to you.

Misting Bottle:
Have one ready if your humidity drops, or to spot clean a crab who you want to play with, or to physically check. You can also have a second one with fresh salt water to control mold and fungus. This water also must be de-chlorinated and Hermie Safe.

Food:
Provide a nice selection of fresh and dried foods daily. Fresh foods can stay for 24 hours or less only because of mold and spoilage. Dried foods can stay for 2 or 3 days as long as you monitor it carefully.
Rotate food selection so that you crabs do not get bored and live a more natural scavenger type life. Check out our food lists.

Heating:
Land Hermit Crabs live in tropical areas, there for it is quite warm and humid. First there is the heat. Sometimes the lights you use give off a fair amount of heat, yet that does not reach the depths of your substrate when some crabs may be burried.
A UTH (Under Tank Heater) will answer this issue. Found in the reptile area of most pet stores and available in a variety of sizes.. once firmly attached to the bottom of your tank, it will provide heat to the substrate which some crabs prefer.
Make sure you have a cool side and a warm side. UTH should not be used on plastic Kritter Keepers due to warping and the toxic fumes some plastics can give off.. so watch where you stick it!
Dishes:
You will want at very least 3 dishes. 2 are for water and one will be used for food. Sometimes it is good to have extras due to seperating wet and dried foods or to switch out for cleanings.
They are to be heavy and sturdy, non-porous and NON-METALLIC. Remember there is to never be any metal within your crabs home, especially that may come into contact with water or moisture.
Extra shells:
Rule of thumb, 3 per crab.. one larger,
one about the same and one slightly smaller. Do not offer painted or decorated shells if you can help it, the paint is toxic. Wash them and offer them different ones from time to time. If the crabs do not have a proper shell they will die.