How do you get rid of water hammer in your pipes? Thanks for any advice.?

Answer 1

The most common cause of water hammer is indeed air in the pipes as most of the other answers have suggested, but there is one more potential source: taps such as on a shower that automatically control temperature by maintaining constant ratios of hot and cold water can be faulty, and "hunt" for the right ratio with the result that they hammer.

If the water hammering only happens from a shower/bath faucet, then that's your problem. Replace the self-compensating valve insert.

Answer 2

Eliminate Water Hammer

Answer 3

A couple of the people that have already answered have go the problem sort of correct. The knocking of your pipes is caused by a condition called Water Hammer. This condition is caused by air in the pipes not being alowed to get out through the fixtures in your house. In essence, it is trapped in you pipes, and the knocking is caused by the air "slamming" against your pipes when valves are closed. This is an easy fix if you have the skills.

Adding a Water Hammer Arrestor

Materials
(1) 1/2" Copper Tee
(1) 1/2" Water Hammer Arrestor
(1) 2" piece of 1/2" Type L or K Copper
Solder Paste (Flux)
Solder
Flux Brush
Plumber's Cloth or sandpaper (Medium or Fine Grit)
Appropriate sized fitting brush
Propane or MAPP Torch
Copper Tubing Cutter
Bucket
Rags
All can be found at any hardware store or home center

Directions
1. Locate the supply pipe for the Fixture in question in the basement. They should by 1/2" copper pipes. If the pipes are not 1/2" in inside diameter, they are usually 3/4" and you need a 3/4" Tee and Water Hammer Arrestor instead of 1/2" ones. Do this before you go out to buy the needed materials.

2. Shut off supply in the basement for the fixture in question. If the fixture cannot be shut off from the basement, shut off at the main by the meter (This will turn off the water for the entire house). Turn on the fixture faucets in the sink and the tub.

3. Now begin cutting the pipe about 12" from the valve or tee (on the side of the valve or tee going to the bathroom, not the side coming from the main water line. Have the rags and the bucket handy at this time, as you start cutting through the pipe, water will start leaking out and you can use the rags and the bucket to cut down on the mess. After cutting through, allow remaining water to drain.

4. When water is drained, or while it is draining, cut a 1/2" piece off of either end of the cut pipe. With the plumber's cloth or sandpaper, clean off the ends of the pipe you have just cut until they shine like bright copper. With the fitting brush, do the same with the tee. Apply flux to the fitting and the pipe ends that you have just cleaned. Now do the same for the Water Hammer Arrestor and the 2" piece of pipe.

5. Place the ends of the pipe into the tee and the 2" piece of pipe into the outlet of the tee. Place the Water Hammer Arrestor into the 2" piece. If at all possible, position the Arrestor in a vertical position.

6. Solder all the joint on the Tee and the arrestor. Allow to cool for a few minutes.

7. Wipe off the joints after cooled to remove excess flux to avoid the pipes turning green and the copper to fail prematurely.

8. Turn on water and check for leaks in your new joints. If it does leak, drain the line and re solder the joints. If not, you are done and should not hear the banging anymore. If you do, you may have to install another Arrestor on you main house supply.

I hope this information will Help.

Answer 4

Air Hammer Arrestor

Answer 5

Which fittings are you getting the water hammer from? You will need to have your plumber install air gaps on the offending fixtures. These usually go under the sink or within a wall and trap a little air to absorb the sudden pressure difference. This is more than an annoyance and can destroy your pipes over time.

Answer 6

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You'll find it's the hot water tap at fault, a lot of taps are manufactured abroad and not good quality also the internal design has changed ,relying on a worm and sealing washers to open it,this can cause water to leak into the internal chamber, causing water hammer too , just change the taps to quarter turn type,these should never cause water vibration as they have sliding ceramic discs within.Don't waste your time trying to clip every bit of pipe,if any do need fixing you'll find it'll only produce a clunk every time you turn off and not what you are describing.

Answer 7

usually water hammer is from a bad washer on a valve..... start at the fixture where the water hammer starts .... faucet ... toilet.. ect..... then either change the washer or replace the valve..... if its coming from the toilet its probably the ballcock or the shut off valve.... work your way from the fixture that makes the noise backwards toward the main valve....... if the noise starts from any water you use start at the main valve........ if its not any valve and you have tried everything you might just need to strap up some loose piping .... DONT install those water hammer aresters on your lines they dont work most of the time and it your not comfortable with plumbing they can cause more problems than they fix....... if all else fails call a licenced plumber and pay him / her what they charge.... usually it will be by the hour to find and solve a problem like yours

Answer 8

I bought a metal thingy that attaches at the end of any faucet. The color of copper and about 6" long it has a spring and an air chamber inside and is designed to absorb shock waves in the pipe. The problem is mostly in the way the water pipes are held to the walls but this is hard to fix because the pipes are usually inside of the walls. I attached one of these absorbers at the washing machine feed faucet and one at the drain pipe at the bottom of the water heater. Leave the water heater drain valve "on" after installing the absorber. About $8 each.

Answer 9

Suggest that you install a pulsation dampener. Dampeners provide the most cost efficient and effective choice to prevent the damaging effects of pulsation. A surge suppressor is in design essentially the same as pulsation dampener. The difference primarily lies in sizing and pressurizing.

The most current pulsation dampener design is the hydro-pneumatic dampener, consisting of a pressure vessel containing a compressed gas, generally air or Nitrogen separated from the process liquid by a bladder or diaphragm. The dampener is installed as close as possible to the pump or quick closing valve and is charged to 85% of the liquid line pressure. Proper sizing of the pulsation or surge suppressor requires several calculations. A close contact with the suppressor’s manufacturer will ensure the correct sizing for a particular application.

Answer 10

Your pipes bang because they are loose. Try to strap them down with pipe tape, Its like a thin metal tape with holes for nails. You wrap it around the pipe and nail it to wall stud or whever you can acess it. Sometimes you can even see where they are hitting. Look in the basement for water pipes and watch while someone turns the water on and off .