My 1967 Ford Galaxie (390 engine) stalls if I turn the idle down below about 800 RPM's. Any idea why?

Question

I have done a full tune up, but otherwise I knwo very little about cars and I am learning as I go along. It has an aftermarket Holley 4 barrel carb but otherwise the engine is stock as far as I can tell.

I have done a full tune up, but otherwise I knwo very little about cars and I am learning as I go along. It has an aftermarket Holley 4 barrel carb but otherwise the engine is stock as far as I can tell.

The Chilton's manual says that I need the RPM's at 550 to do the timing, which is my whole problem. I can't really set the timing if I can't get the RPM's right can I?

Answer 1

I have a 1969 Galaxie with a 390 with an aftermarket Holley. It idles just fine. The important thing is to check for vacuum leaks. The big hose to the brakes and the rest of the car should be plugged while looking for answers.
If you get it below 800 rpm, the timing should be close enough to set.
I have had cams in these (FE) engines that would NOT idle, but those were racing engines and were not difficult to recognize by the "lope,lope,lope" as you tried to slow them down.

Answer 2

I have a Mini Cooper, and it happened that the light for the GAS CAP being closed was on the same circuit as the warning light for 'Check Engine' that could signal major repairs. It turned out that you're not "supposed" to turn on the car while the gas cap is open, or remove the key from the ignition while pumping gas or something like that. Stupid. While this doesn't explain the car stalling at idle and the other problems you describe, you might just make sure that the gas cap is closing properly and don't do two things at once the next time you are filling the car with gas. I'd make sure the car has ENOUGH ENGINE OIL, by checking the dipstick (which a friend can easily do if you don't know how), and waiting for the service to have them check the electricals and figure out the stalling. The Mini dealer wanted $108 to check my circuits outside the normal maintenance time, the crooks. But that's the way of the world these days. Anybody believe as I do that computer-chips in most cars are WAY more trouble than they're worth? Idiots driving anywhere near civilization with Ion-beam headlights designed for driving on the moon please abstain from comments. We already know where you're coming from, and up your tailpipes is all I have to say.

Answer 3

Well, Holley carbs are good for dumping gas not sipping it. Those carbs need good vacuum (air velocity) to atomize fuel. Persoanlly, I always thought Holleys were best left on the race track. Also, 800 rpm is faily low for idle. Anything below that is pushing it for an older non-FI engine. 750 rpm for idle was really common for most engines even into the early 80's. If you want better fuel atomization, fuel economy, and tunablity slap on a TBI in place of the carb. A tunable setup can be found with computer for about $500...otherwise be happy with 800 rpm its OK as long as things are not running too rich or lean. You can check you plugs if running rich or lean (or get a O2 sensor to dial in). A re-jet or otherwise maybe in order for the carb to fit your engine combo.

Answer 4

Ford Galaxie 390

Answer 5

800 sounds fine to me, 550 sounds way too low, unless you are trying to make this stock engine lope like it's got a monster cam in it, 800 sounds perfectly normal. Unhook the vacuum line from the vacuum advance on the distributor and then set the timing, you will still be able to see the mark on the crank pulley with a timing light, crank it up about 14 degrees before top dead center, should give a little more kick in the pants, without pinging the valves.

Answer 6

check timing retard as needed make sure vacuum is plugged then reduce idle

Answer 7

Make sure you don't have any vacuum leaks.