Is there a deep root tree that is good to plant in central california that won't break sidewalks?

Question

I want to plant a tree in a medium sized yard, one that will grow fast and provide LOTS of shade, no fruit, flowers optional but prefer none, and one with a deep root system that won't have shallow roots that will break the sidewalks or driveway. Does such a tree exist?

More info: Yard is medium to large in size with house on one side, sidewalks on 3 sides. Just removed a deodar cedar that was over 80 feet tall with a spread of about 45 to 50 feet that was planted much too close to the house. It was threatening the house foundation and was starting to drop lower branches and we feared for our house and passersby. This is a residential neighborhood in central California. We'd like a fast-growing deciduous tree that would provide good shade to the front room of the house but planted a good 15 feet further from the house than the previous tree.

We'd like a tree that would grow to 25-40 feet with a spread of around 25-30 feet. That would provide good shade for the yard and the front room of the house.

Answer 1

The answer to your questions depends on information missing from your question. Like, what zone do you live in? Sunset Western Garden Book lists about 18 microzones for central CA. Do you want dicidious (leaf shedding) or evergreen? Desired mature height and spread of the tree? I'm guessing, if you have a medium sized yard you want something 15-25 ft tall with a spread of 20-30 feet. Location of the tree is important also. Are you planting near an existing sidewalk, or planning a sidewalk after the tree is planted? If the latter, consider pavers rather than concrete. Water will drain into the spaces between the pavers and into the soil. Remember, the root ball under the soil will reach as large as or larger than the spread of the tree, often refered to as the drip line.

I could give you a list of trees that may fit those requirements, but you may not like them without seeing them. There are a number of things you can do to help pick a tree. Visit local parks and collect a fallen leaf from the trees you like. A local nursery should be able to identify the tree from the leaf and tell you the growth habits for the particular species. Some trees have a natural tendency to surface roots. Any tree that doesn't receive enough water will develope roots closer to the surface in search of water, breaking sidewalks and foundations. There is a remedy if you live in an area that is dry. Deep watering the first year is essential to establish a healthy deep root system.

There are a number of botanical gardens between Santa Barbara and Monterey and inland to the valleys. Botanical gardens have docents on staff who are knowledgable about the plants in the gardens and can provide information on those that interest you (they usually have sales a couple of times a year). Google California Botanical Gardens for a list of links.

Local colleges & universities offering horticulture programs often have their own self supporting nurserys and plant sales.

The California Native Plant Society can give you a list of native species that may fit your requirements. (link below)

One of my favorite shade trees is the Western Redbud. Drought hearty with interesting bark, heart shaped leaves, and blooms in the spring. Pretty little clusters of "sweet pea" shaped blossoms clinging to the branches. It drops leaves profusely in the fall. The height varies between 15-40 feet with a 20-50 ft spread depending on the variety.

There are a number of new dwarf magnolias with similar growth habits above. They do drop some leaf, but are considered evergreen.

Avoid Jacaranda, Ficus, Ash, Willow, and similar trees. All are prone to surface roots, Ash to root fungus. Crepe Myrtel is prone to powdery mildew and root suckers. Jacaranda is also prone to breakage in wind, as is Chinese Elm.

I'll provide some links to gardening resources that may be able to assist you further.

Answer 2

Yes there are lots, maples, elms, oaks, eucalyptus, etc. etc. Certain trees within these groups are better situated for what you want to do. The Western Garden book is a great source.

Trees grow two basic types of root systems. The first is the tap root system (which essentially resembles the tree but upside down), for support and for accessing deeper levels of the water table. The second (and minor system) is surface/feeder root system.

In natural situations, as the year progresses from rainy season through the dry season, the water table drops to deeper levels underground. This, over time, draws the taproot down. Surface feeder roots pick up minerals and nutrients and rarely spread out beyond the tree’s canopy. A great example of this is the California Blue Oak. It grows in the central valley, wet for three months of the year then totally arid for the remainder. The water table where it thrives may be 50 to 100 feet below the surface, and it has roots that go that deep.

However in a typical yard we all do the worst thing possible with respect to helping a tree develop a taproot system. That is, on a twice-weekly basis (sometimes more often), we water the lawn, applying water to the top 1-2 inches of the ground, thereby encouraging our trees to develop a massive surface root system. As the tree grows, (and since all the necessary water is in the surface layers) the surface root system becomes more and more massive. Hence, the cracked sidewalks, driveways etc.

Lawns and trees are not completely compatible. But can be grown together if the situation is geared towards helping the tree develop its tap root system. These actions revolve around deep watering and deep applications of fertilizer. Basically for the first few years, you got to sacrifice the lawn directly beneath the tree, as well as shrubs and flowers. A circle of bare soil covered with weed cloth, covered with redwood bark chips is attractive and functional. You basically want this circle to be slightly larger than the tree’s canopy; enlarging the circle every two tears or so.

Another problem is a hardpan layer, which prevents sufrace water from percolating deeper, and can also prevernt roots from going deep. You have to crack this layer when you plant a tree. In places with a relatively shallow hardpan, 3-4 feet, generally digging the hole to plant the tree in will crack the hardpan. If it's deeper, one can use a breaker bar to penetrate the hardpan. But, it's best to break through the hardpan.

One can also install plastic barriers around the tree. These barriers are pyramidal in shape smaller at the tom than at the bottom. Originally developed for planting trees in the strip between the sidewalk and the street. As tree roots grow outward, they contact the plastic barrier and because the barrier slants outward as it goes deeper, the roots are forced downwards. This works in these types of plantings because there is no surface water under the street/sidewalk to draw the roots towards the surface. Thus, the tree develops its proper taproot.

Good luck!

Answer 3

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