New parts I have put in...
1. Replaced the Rectifier/Regulator
2. Replaced the Stator
3. Replaced the Rotor
4. Replaced the Brushes
5. Replaced the Key Ignition
6. Cleaned all Grounds, I am reading around .5 to 1 Ohms at all
points.
7. Tested all of the above for proper readings as far as
resistance to ground and shorts.
8. New Battery, as of last year.
2006-06-29 02:12:14 · 6 answers · asked by GarthVader 1 in Cars & Transportation ➔ Motorcycles
Remove the cover and check at the brushes. One should have battery voltage (with the key on) and the other should have continuity to ground.
Suzukis of that era used to burn the wires at the connector from the stator to wire harness. Check to make sure the terminals are making a good connection.
The battery has to be in perfect condition to get accurate readings when checking the charging system. Charge the battery and check the acid with a hydrometer. (about $10 - looks like an eye dropper with colored balls inside). When a battery won't hold a charge, either the battery is bad or there is a current draw when the key is off. You said you changed the battery a year ago. It could have gone bad over the winter.
Is the crankcase cover damaged in any way? Dents, scrapes, like the bike fell over. The cover could be out of alignment. Did you check the AC output from the generator as per my previous answer?
2006-06-29 03:13:27 · answer #1 · answered by guardrailjim 7 · 0⤊ 0⤋
HAVE YOU HOOKED UP A VOLTMETER AND SEE HOW MANY VOLTS ARE BEING SENT TO THE BATTERY TERMINALS . THIS SHOULD GIVE YOU A DEFINITE ANSWER TO IF IT IS CHARGING OR IF IT IS JUST THE BATTERY NOT ACCEPTING THE CHARGE. ALSO AS SOMEONE ELSE HAS MENTIONED THEIR IS A FUSE FOR THE CHARGING SYSTEM USUALLY NEAR THE RECTIFIER BUT COULD ALSO BE NEAR BATTERY. CHECK THESE COUPLE THINGS AND YOU SHOULD HAVE A BETTER IDEA OF WHATS GOING ON. YOU CAN ALSO CHECK THE VOLTAGE COMING FROM THE ALTERNATOR WHICH I SEE YOU REPLACED ALOT OF PARTS TO. IF YOU ARE NOT GETTING ENOUGH VOLTS COMMING FROM THEIR YOUR WINDINGS WILL NEED TO BE TESTED AND INSPECTED.GOOD LUCK HOPE YOU GET IT GOIN
2006-07-09 02:42:35 · answer #2 · answered by techman48827 3 · 0⤊ 0⤋
How much electrical load are you putting on system? extra lights, etc. Has battery been left discharged? after about 30days dead they start to sulphate and it's pretty much the end of them. Honda use green for ground, red~red/white, live before switch/charge. Check all the Red/Red/White wires on the harness block connectors, you can change out any that are damaged/corroded (usually the red/white from rectifier to harness or battery)
check for battery voltage at brush holder (ign. On) and no load AC on the output wires (3 yellow ones) should be around 80+volts@2,000~5,000rpm, you'll have to use some jumpers to connect black~white to rotor brushes.
I forget the output amps, its around 12 to 15A
You seem to have changed all the usual suspects. Good luck.
2006-06-29 09:40:32 · answer #3 · answered by 1crazypj 5 · 0⤊ 0⤋
Have you checked the battery cable for corrosion? I had a cable corrode 'inside' the jacket where it couldn't be seen. I cut the jacket off, brushed the cable with a wire brush, put electrical tape back over the cable, and it worked. Saved me lots of ca$h.
2006-06-29 09:20:24 · answer #4 · answered by Smoothie 5 · 0⤊ 0⤋
Did you check the fuses? Also, just because the battery was purchased last year, it can still have a deffect on it check to see if it can hold the charge. good luck.
2006-07-09 00:27:31 · answer #5 · answered by m 2 · 0⤊ 0⤋
A common cause on the coast is corrosion on the negative cable. The end grounded on the engine is often overlooked.
2006-06-29 13:00:56 · answer #6 · answered by tex 5 · 0⤊ 0⤋