There are a number of answers already given, some which have some
good points. Some answers are wrong.
I have answered this question, as to what is the best speed to
burn a CD at --
There are many good answers already given above, and a few bad ones.
Not one person has mentioned important factors such as how much RAM you have, how fast your CPU is, or even more importantly, WHAT you are burning in the first place.!!
If you are burning a wide variety of files scattered all over
your computer, say from another CD, a USB memory device,
many different folders from dfferent harddrives, all at once,
then there is a hiccup every time the computer has to load in the data from a different location... Burn slow !
If you are gathering MP3 songs which are scattered all over your harddrive in many sub-nested folders, burn slower.
If you a copying another CD of your favourite songs or MP3's, you have to consider - how fast is the CD you are reading from, how fast is the data tranfere From one CD to the other, and not just in terms of the " rated" speed, but is one a Master, and the other Slave on the SAME CABLE? If so, the speed is cut in half, since there is only one cable, the cable can only read OR write at any moment, and the data
cannot read, and be sent to the other CD immediately, which it " COULD " do if the 2 CD's were on DIFFERENT cables...
Be aware that the "rated" speed of any CD is the fastest speed that the CD can burn --- *** IN ONLY ONE SPOT ON THE
CD *** --- That means that in the tiny centre area of the CD, where the radius of the circle is the smallest, the CD can burn the dots at the fastest speed. As you go out farther on the CD, the actual speed of the track increases greatly, and on the outmost last 1.4 inch, I do not know of a single CD burner that can burn at the " ADVERTISED " speed. ( So in "fact " no CD burner at all burns at the
highest speed listed ). A good CD burner will burn at 80 times. If you take a laser R.P.M. speed reader and look at any CD, you will see the speed decrease as the burner head moves away from the center...
SO, if you have a 4 Giga Hertz computer, with 2 GigaBytes of ram, and an 80 X Speed Burner, and use Serial ATA 10,000
RPM harddrives, and have each CD machine on a separate ATA 80 pin cable as a MASTER, then you can burn quite fast, with
few errors appearing immediately...
I agree with the answer that a slower burn is a more reliable, better burn, with less problems. If you have
a collection of files from different harddrives and CD's,
-- put them in a SINGLE FOLDER, and burn the contents of the
new folder, since everything there will be in the same
order, in the same location, with no hiccups since the computer does not have to change devices to read the data.
If you can, try to arrange your cables to the CD's so that
the Burner is NOT on the same cable as the harddrive or the
other CD you might be gathering data from.
Two people with exactly the same harddrive, CD reader, and CD burner, can have totally different success in burning CD's at any given speed. If the first person has the harddrive on a ATA cable, with the CDs as Masters on
2 differnt cables, while the second person has the
harddrive and the CD burner on the same cable, as Master and Slave,
the second person will not be able to burn as fast without having problems....
I generally burn at 1/2 the speed of the rated machine listing. If the burner is rated at 48, I aim for 24, and if
I know WHERE THE DATA IS COMMING FROM, ie., from a slower device, the network, or scattered folders, I burn even slower. It does make a differnce. If I am forced to gather
the data I am burning from the SAME CABLE.... ( a master or slave on the same cable as the burner ) I burn even slower
again... After a while you get a good " feel " for where you can put the speed settings, on each machine...
I have hundreds of BAD CD burns. Live and learn. There are hundreds of exceptions to each rule, and different software
programs for burning, and different manufacters of CD's, readers, burners, and many hardware ( motherboards, chipset manufacturers, ), and different software Operating Systems
( DOS, Win 3.11, Win 95, Win 98, Win ME, Win 2000, Win NT,
Win XP, Linux, OS/2, etc. ), and just when you think you
have all the variables figured out, there are always new
variables that appear...
I have two CD bundles here, from " BRAND NAME " ( out of politeness I will not mention them here ), manufacturers, and both bundles are defective burns. One, in the correct backlighting, shows a cross pattern of reflective deposition. The other has a wavy pattern of diffraction on the outter 1 inch. They are both difficult to detect,
and will cuase hours of frustration, since both "might" work if the burn is specifically done on the valid regions of the CD, usually for small files...
Hope this demonstrates that the " ANSWER " to your question is not a simple number ( 12 x) or a simple rule ( Maximum speed minus 4 ) etc. I have burned an entire CD at 80X.
I have also burned 10 CD's at 1 x ( That's ONE times speed )
and all failed, at $30 each.. on a One times, $5000 burner...
The "best" speed is determined by all the hardware on your
computer, and how it is connected, and what speeds are available on all parts of the machine, and what quality of CD's you are using, etc...
I still have some CD's which were burned on some of the first
CD burners offered to the "PUBLIC", which have never
deteriorated at all. Physical damage - particularly scratches
to either side are the number one cause of problems.
Scratches and pitting on the bottom surface can be cleaned
off, since the data is on the TOP of the CD. Using 3 or 4 grinding
powders from coarse to fine, you can polish the bottom so that
the laser can read through imperfections. When the TOP is
scratched, even with a single pin point, the data is totally gone
at that point. If the point damaged is a non-critical bit, say a
dot in a large picture, you might be able to use the data - even though
damaged.
If the damaged point is in an .EXE sequence, CRC or error
checking will probably see the bad data bits and refuse to continue. I have cheated a few times and put BLACK paper
or black paint on the top of pin point scratches, and allowed
the data to be retrieved.
I have never seen a "working" CD quit on its own, iff stored
in a CD case, properly, ie, not in direct sunlight, etc.
hope this helps.
robin
2006-06-28 17:19:06
·
answer #5
·
answered by robin_graves 4
·
0⤊
0⤋