Step by step, how do you slope a mortor bed for a shower pan install.?

Question

I'm a complete rookie, and have never done this before. I intend to retile a shower. I also may need to replace the shower pan. That's the part that scares me. All the books tell you to slope it, but none tell you how. Maybe you can direct me to a book that has step by step instructions about sloping mortor.

Answer 1

One way is to get 1/4 " inch wood shims , lay or sometimes I staple or tack them down to the plywood. Depending on shape of pan and size of trowel will determine how many to use. Apply mortar troweling too and away from your drain, making mud flush with tops of shims, using the shims as screeds, that done remove shims and fill the voids they made smoothing everything out even letting the mud set up a little then sponge float it to smooth out . Hope this helps good luck!

Answer 2

Well, it's not going to be easy. First of all you are going to need a shower drain that is adjustable. One that screws up and down. Once you have that, the next step is to set the shower drain to about 1/2 to 5/8 of a inch from the floor.Heres where it may get confusing, once you set the drain to what I told you earlier, get a piece of the tile you are going to use and place it next to the shower drain. You will notice that the drain sits lower than the tile itself. Now, this is where you need to unscrew the shower drain just enough for the tile and the drain are even to each other, once you have that, unscrew the drain 1/8 of a inch, this is giving enough room for your mortar. From the base of your shower pan to the top of your drain should be roughly 1 1/8 inch to 1 1/4 inch. So now you have your lowest point., the drain. Before you start to mud your shower pan, tape up your shower drain so that no mortar gets in the drain itself. Now that you have that done, go ahead and start to throw in your mortar. As you throw it in, you're going to need to pack it, and I do mean PACK IT! You do not want your base to be weak. You are going to need a "flat trowel", "wooden durby" and a "level". The flat trowel is to pack the mortar and the wooden durby is used for that as well, but it is also used so you can have a smooth surface. Like I said before, throw in your mortar, as you throw your mortar in you want to pack it. Continue to build up as you get closer to the walls. Now, here is where you need your level, start at the drain. From the edge of the drain, work your durby in a circular motion trying to achive a 1/4 inch bevel or fall from the center of the drain out to the walls, a slope if you will. It's not going to be easy. Take your time. Work it out all the way around. That is about all I can help you with, sorry. If your wondering, yes, I'm a tile setter. Good luck. I could show you better in person, but I can't. Once again, good luck. Before I forget, Look for any visible damage to your pan before you start, because if the pan is damaged, all your work will be for nothing. You do the test on your shower pan, by filling it with water BEFORE you start to do what I explained to you earlier. If the water is in it the next day, then the pan is good, but if not FIX IT or spend the money and have someone fix it for you. Good luck. EL Toro Malo.

Answer 3

You don't need much of a slope, just sufficient to drain the water- set the Drain, then use a level to make a higher point on the wall, chalk a line on the wall, so you stay even all the way, Start along the wall and trowl to the drain, it will slope.

Answer 4

Slopes are usually 1/4" per foot from the walls of the shower (highest point) to the drain (lowest point). This website has details you can print and follow. I'm sure there are more if you google it.

Answer 5

what the others said is correct but, u should use structo-lite, its like moarter but has give, so you dont crack the shower base especially if its an acrylic base. you can get it in any plumbing supply store