I want to sand my oak floors...what type of sand paper should I use and what are the steps?

Answer 1

If you're re-finishing maybe this will help:

HOW TO REFINISH WOOD FLOORS WITH SANDSCREEN DISCS

Purpose:

Sandscreen discs are used to remove surface scratches, dulling gloss finishes for re-coating and any floor operation where only the removal of the finish is desired leaving the hardwood flooring beneath unaltered. This system is most desirable in situations where the floor surface being prepared is only slightly worn or re-coating is frequently required (i.e. gymnasium floors).

Supplies and Equipment:

- Rotary Floor Buffer
- Drive Brush Holder
-1" ETC Floor Pad
- Sandscreen Discs
- Wet/Dry Vacuum
- Tack Rags
- Floor Finish Applicator
- Floor Finish

Procedure:

1. Sweep or vacuum the entire floor surface.

2. Remove prior wax or dust mop treatment according to instructions on product.

3. Select the proper grit (size) sandscreen for the application:

a.Deep Scratches 60, 80 or 100 grit to level scratches. Then finish with 120 or 150 grit as noted below.

b.Minimal Scratches 120 or 150 grit to level surface, depending on depth of scratches.

NOTE:

Too large a grit particle will leave "spider web's" after coating. When using 60, 80 or 100 grit you must follow with 120 or 1 50 grit to remove deep scratches. The larger the number, the finer the grit!

4. Remove sandscreen disc from carton and place on the floor near a wall running parallel to the strip flooring or along the longest wall of a room covered with parquet flooring.

5. Place floor buffer, with drive pad holder and ETC's Red, White or Gorilla® pad attached, squarely over the sand screen disc. The floor pad is used to drive the screen and to hold the dust.

6. Begin sanding a small area, moving the floor machine in a straight line with the direction of the grain, overlapping on each new pass to provide uniform sanding the surface. Continue sanding across the floor to remove all highlights of the existing finish. When necessary remove the disc and flex to clean trapped particles of finish. If flexing does not restore proper cutting action, use the opposite side until that side no longer provides effective cutting action. (NOTE: average coverage of a screen disc is 250sq. ft. per side.) When all sanding is completed, fold screen in half and sand by hand those areas near base boards and other areas the floor machine was unable to reach.

7. Upon completion of the sanding operation, sweep or vacuurn the entire floor surface to remove dust and debris. Prior to applying the floor finish, tack rag the entire floor surface at least twice to remove any particles or dust remaining. (Tack according to instructions on finish you are using.)

8. Between coats of floor finish 100,120 or 150 grit screen discs can be used to buff the floor as preparation for subsequent coating. Follow all recommended application procedures listed on the floor finish container.

9. CAUTION: NEVER do a wood floor without at least one experienced person available. Read all instructions on all products. Use either all water based or all solvent (oil) based products.

Answer 2

I have oak hardwood floors and have refinished them several times.

I've always rented a buffer-type sander and used sanding screens of two coarse settings - one of 100 and the other of 60. You'll need several of each. Start with the 60-grit screens to tear-off most of the old finish, then use the 100-grit to smooth the floor before applying the new.

Be sure to get-up all the dust after you've finished sanding. Use a broom at first, but spongemop the whole floor carefully afterwards, then let it dry thoroughly before beginning to apply the new finish.

A buffer is easiest to use for the sanding once you're used to it. The main thing is to keep it balanced as it glides across the floor. Tipping it even slightly to one side or the other will cause the buffer to begin tearing itself out of your hands ... Just takes a little getting used-to.

The main thing is the reapplication. I used to use a water-based polyurethane, but now use oil-based. The oil-based poly lasts alot longer and holds-up better. I've also found it's best to use a roller pan and sponge mop when applying it. Get the spongemop wet, ring it out thoroughly, then it's ready for use and all you'll have to do is run it through the roller pan and apply it in long, even coats with the grain of the wood, working your way across the floor, always towards an exit, of course, so you don't paint yourself into a corner ... :)

Be sure to allow plenty of time for each coat to dry. With water-based poly you'll need about four coats before it stands-up, with perhaps six hours between their applications. With oil-based you'll need only two, probably, but may want to apply three.

The more coats you apply (each thinner than the last) the longer the finish will last. Be sure to leave extra time before walking on the floor after the last coat, and try to do so only in your stocking-feet for the first night.

Answer 3

Rent a floor sander, start with 80 grit and go with the grain of the floor. Do it with 120 and 220 grit. If you have alot of stain and varnish on the floor you can go cross grain with the first sanding but you will have to make sure to get all the scratches out with the next 2 sandings. Vacuum the floor and go over it with a tack cloth or at the very least a paint thinner soaked rag. Once your sure all the dust is gone your ready to apply a stain or clear finish. # coats of clear is recommended for a good job 4 is better.

Answer 4

If you are able, you can do it yourself instead of hiring someone. The 'big' sander kurt is refering to is a drum sander, you can rent them pretty much at any rental store. DO NOT rent the type they rent at Lowes or Depot, they are useless. I have done several floors myself and although the sanders are big and heavy...once you get used to it, its quite doable. (I weigh 145 lbs and am 5'7) Practice for 10 min or so on a piece of plywood. I have always used a belt sander or palm sander for the edges. As for the sandpaper, it depends on how much gunk you need to get off. Generally a medium weight will do well then follow up with a fine weight. the actual rental of the machine shouldnt exceed 70 dollars for a day (depends on where you are) but the sandpaper is rather expensive.....it does the job very well though and worth the money. Feel free to email me if you have any specific questions.

Answer 5

Hire some people to do it. The cheapest will be about $2 per square foot. They bring large sanding machines and smaller ones for the corners. They will do it in a day or two. Well worth it. Poly it yourself if you want to save money.

Answer 6

I'm sure you're not planing to do it by hand so it depends on what kind of sander you're going to be using and how much you want to sand it down. They'll tell you at Home Depot.

Answer 7

Hire someone to finish the floor for you. A weekend do-it-yourselfer has little chance of being able to do the job right. A pro has all the equipment to do the job. As a local flooring company for a lead.

Answer 8

It depends on what you want to do with them, if you want to just strip the finish off, to apply a new one (which i suggest you do, to protect the wood) then you should use a belt sander, or rotary sander, with a fine grain paper, and take off just the layer of finish.

use a more coarse grain first if you wish to even them out, and then a fine grain for a smooth surface, and a finish after that

Answer 9

It would take you FOREVER to sand it with paper. Unless you have nothing better to do with your time, try using an electric sander. Just plug it in and go (I don't know rest - how hard to press, etc.) So don't rely on me!

Answer 10

sand paper is old way, modern way is get real sand and have party next day you sweep up an job done