what is the proper technique to rip 2x4 on a table saw?

Question

i'm cutting 2x4s down to 2"x3" and its difficult to run the boards through the saw and keeping them straight.

Answer 1

This task is best done with two people although a person working alone can do it.
1. Set the fence to the correct distance from the blade.
2. Make sure you are holding the 2 x 4 against the fence as you start to feed it. This is where the second person is useful.
3. When you get enough of the stud past the blade to grab it without being close to the blade, the second person should hold that end against the fence and pull the 2 x 4 through as the first person continues to feed.

Answer 2

The longer the board the more difficult it is, especially if you are alone and all you have is a little bench table saw with a short rip fence. Try rough cutting the boards to the length you need first. Then have some one help on the other side. The person farthest from the saw blade controls the cut, because he has the longest pivot point. Don't watch the blade, as much as the fence. You definitely need to be aware of the blade, but the board should also be in contact with fence at all times to achieve the best cut. And use a push stick. You can always buy more boards, but not new fingers. Don't force the board, be careful, and Good Luck.

Answer 3

You can safely cut it, but you can't cut it into 2- 1x4 s. You can cut it into 1- 1x4 and 1 board that will be about 5/8" thick, or if you are real careful about it, you can get two boards of close to the same thickness, somewhere around 11/16" thick. That is assuming you are using a standard 2x4, which is 3 1/2" x 1 1/2" to begin with. When cutting use a zero clearance insert on the saw, set the fence at 11/16"( if you want two almost equal boards) from the blade, set the blade height at 3 9/16" to 3 5/8", support the end of the board and keep it tight to the fence. Use a push stick to push it through the blade when you get close to the end. Use a feather board if you have one to hold it against the fence

Answer 4

First off, you should have a "kerf board"...
(Its those fingers that keep the boards tight to the fence, and they are usually at a 45 degree angle. They usually are held in the slot for the miter guage).

Now, when you get a kerf board, and can hold the wood to the fence properly...

Get yourself a PUSH STICK!!!

Any woodworker who doesnt use one of these are just asking to have thier hands or fingers gone, when they slip on the wood into the buzz saw. (Remember, it has no concious, it will cut ANYTHING!).

Now, if you want to rip the 2X4s into 2X3s, just adjust your fence so that it will be exactly 3" from the back of the saw, and the front of the saw. Yes, the fence may be off a bit, so you measure the back end of the saw, to the fence, and then, take the measurement from the front end of the saw to the fence...and see if they both are exact and the same.

Now if they are, then, simply cut the wood.

I wish you well..

Jesse

Answer 5

another quick tip: use an outfeed table. You don't want to be trying to hold the end of the 2x4 down after it gets more than half way off the table.
Also buy straight 2x4's and cut them as soon as you get them home. As wood dries, it does warp and that could be causing the problem. Hold downs and kerf boards and push sticks will help you keep all ten fingers where they belong

Answer 6

AND MOST IMPORTANTLY - when using a table saw NEVER stand behind your work -. If the wood jams the blade your wood will come back at you with a force sufficient to damage a concrete block wall - this is a particular problem when ripping and an even greater problem when ripping long pieces of wood.

ALWAYS stand to the side when ripping - if the board jams it will at least miss you on its way to damage or destroy something else.

Answer 7

Probably the easiest way to ensure a straight cut when cutting a large volume to the same size is to set up a guid for the board to track on. take a straight edge, 9 I use a 2x2 metal piece of bar stock about 3 foot long, the length of my table, and fix it in place with a pair of quick release clamps. Gauge the measurment and set your guides then clamp the bar stock in place. Now your stock will run true, supported on the one side by the bar stock for straightness and against the standard guides on your saw. Remember to use a push block and keep fingers clear.