you need a good carb dip....buy a can at automotive store.
disassemble main jets, floats, idle jets (small slotted head next to the main jet, need a skinny screwdriver to get into the hole it is recessed into. Air screw removed, (turn clockwise and count how many turns out it was set at, then unscrew it and clean out the passages. Be very careful with the float pins, the brackets can easily snap on an old carb. The green deposits are algae, they won't go away unless you really dip the parts overnight.
2006-06-19 10:08:42
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answer #1
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answered by NinjaRacer 3
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Are you sure the battery is draining? If so, how do you know that? The first thing I thought of is a fuel supply problem. Dies your bike have a in line fuel filter? If so, it could be plugged up and flowing very slowly. The reason the bike runs 5 minutes and then quits is because that's how long it takes to burn the fuel in the carb bowls. While it sets, new fuel trickles into the carbs and away you go for another 5 minutes. If you don't have an inline filter, there could be a bunch of rust or crud floating around in the tank and is plugging the filter sock. Look inside the filler hole and see if the tank looks rusty or you can run your finger inside the hole on the bottom side of the top of the tank and get rust. If so, then rust could certainly be a problem. Evenif you don't, I'd remove the fuel petcock and see if there is dirt or varnish on the sock. If the latter, try using a good carb cleaner to remove it. The only other option would be that something like the igniter heats up because of an internal short and starts working again after it cools off, but most likely it would take more than 5 minutes to cool enough to work again. Check the fuel first and don't forget to look for a mashed or kinked gas line..
2016-03-26 21:36:58
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answer #2
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answered by ? 4
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i had n 81 xs11
the carbs need to be cleaned with comprssed air, and a simple carb spray.
all parts removed especially ruber or plastic.
also clean the mixture screw cavities.
make sure there is the screw, sprng washer and oring on each.
when using comprssed air, bllock some routes so the air doesn't simply find the easiest way out and bypass the actual obstruction.
if you continue to run bad check the intke boots for air leak using a liberal amount of brake clean to check for idle changes indicatng a faulty boot and or seal.
2006-07-02 20:42:24
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answer #3
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answered by will s 1
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AT THE THROAT OF THE CARBS ARE AIR PASSAGES ,MAKE SURE THEY ARE FREE OF ANY DEBRIS . THE CARBS WILL ALSO HAVE A VENT LINE(RUBBER LINE) THAT RUNS ALONG THE FRAME AND DUMPS OUT USUALLY IN FRONT OF THE BACK TIRE , MAKE SURE NO DIRT DOBBERS HAVE BUILT NEST IN THEM , VERY COMMON ON BIKES THAT HAVE BEEN SITTING, IF EVERY THING INSIDE THE CARBS AND TANK ARE CLEAN YOU SHOULD NOT HAVE ANY PROBLEMS.THE TANK WILL HAVE A VENT LINE ALSO , SO CHECK IT ...
2006-06-30 13:02:33
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answer #4
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answered by thinkinoutloud 2
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Yeah, what Ninja racer said.
2006-06-19 10:34:29
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answer #5
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answered by FangStu 3
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