what seedlings for vegetable and trees to plant during winter and summer?

Question

l want to know what is the best pesticide and insectide for the leafy vegetables. How long it takes that kind of pesticide.

Answer 1

Insecticide...try Neem Oil. It's an extraction from the seed of the Neem tree. No chemicals. You can use it on your veggies or other plants up to 24hrs before harvesting. Google neem oil or neem tree. It's safe to use. Neem oil can be purchased in concentrate form in bottles from hardware stores, home depot, lowes, garden centers, etc.

Answer 2

If you must use pesticides, use one with pyrethrin. Its made from chrysanthemums and neutralizes itself in 24 hours so your food is safe to eat. Try making a tea of garlic and hot peppers. Strain and spray. Or if you can catch the bugs eating your plants, put them in a blender with water, strain and spray. If its slugs, put a copper tape barrier around plants (available in plumbing section of hardware stores). Or research and try companion planting.

Answer 3

Don't use any. Best bet is to go out in the early morning after watering and hand pick off pests....or grow them inside....or just buy organic ones from the store. Good luck.

Answer 4

Check out Territorial web site for their catalog. They have wonderful info on winter gardening,etc.

Answer 5

Planting types and times depend on where you live. Trees should be planted in the fall in well amended soil, early enough to ensure a last few rains (because let's face it...we all forget to water the "newbies" on occasion), and enough time for them to establish solid root systems before going dormant for the winter.
Summer crops are pretty much anything you want to grow. Just look at the planting suggestion for the "best time to plant" in your zone. I usually do plus or minus a month on those, simply because I know where I live better than the person at the factory who only looks at the "averages" for the region!! I've been known to start things in April that aren't supposed to go in until June.....just depends...and just remember....you can't get upset if the beans rot in the ground due to too much water or a reversal in the temperature....just poke the hole and do it again..... and then stand back in surprise when they come up double, 'cause they didn't rot after all!!
Now........fall/spring planting can be a little different: Cold crop veggies include most of the cabbage family: cabbage, cauliflower, broccoli, brussel sprouts etc....and some of the "greens". Here in VA they do better seeded directly into the ground in late, late summer when the ground is already hot, and the cabbage moths have already gone by the wayside. They don't go to seed as quickly either. Nothing worse than going out and looking at that lovely brocco-flower for dinner the next night, just to get out there as the water comes to a boil and find that it's bolted (gone to seed)!! Brussel sprouts also do better as a fall vs spring crop as they are sweeter if harvested after a frost. Won't happen in the spring as they take 90-120 days depending on the type, and around here we are at 30 degrees on Wednesday, and then flip to and maintain the 90's from Thursday on....."Spring??? Oh, that was yesterday!!"......but fresh mini cabbages for Christmas are great! (and if the 'maters are still green when there is a promise of snow.... pull them up, hang them upside down in the garage, spray the roots with a water bottle....and let them vine ripen for New Years....been there...done that!!...yup..reverse hydroponics....)

"Leafy"?? Do you mean collards, mustards and other greens?? They will grow as a perrenial crop if you treat them right (and sometimes even if you don't!). If the buggies get them in the spring, trim them back, dust them with a little bit of Borateem (yes...the laundry detergent....or borax if you can find it).....and you'll have a fresh crop for the late fall. If you want both crops, cover them with screen domes.
Insicticide? Never use the stuff! I tend to pick as I weed and stake...and like the ability to pop that "mater" right into the mouth without having to worry about it. If done right, you shouldn't loose more to the pests than you can afford to. (we were all brought up to share....but I draw the line when it comes to the deer!!)
"Right" means: not in rows, grown with friends, and giving your plants neighbors that scare away their worst enemies. Confused? :-)
Just remember: Benificial insects are killed by insecticide too.....not just the nasty critters. And if you have a well......how long until it hits your water table?? Just a few hints on that comment from the earlier responder about "companion" gardening:
Don't grow cabbages and 'maters next to each other or after each other. The cabbage takes too much calcium and nitrogen from the soil and next years 'maters in that ground will be abismal. Plant bean after cabbage to restore the ground.
Surround your 'maters and 'cukes with basil and marigolds. The bugs that LOVE the veggies, hate the flowers and herbs. Also, cut the top and bottoms off of liter soda bottles and put around your 'maters once they are tall enough (about the time you plant). This not only keeps away the cut worms, but also helps you water the roots, and saves water (spare water leads to weeds!!!YUCK!!). Pull up the plants at the end of the season, pull off the plastic for disposal (recycle if you want), and compost the plant remains....just don't throw the plastic in the heap....that takes a few hundred years to break down...
Don't grow beans (pole or bush) near your cukes or squash: the japanese beetles will spread the wilt and mildew everywhere! Plant your bush beans around your eggplant, they keep away the pin-beetles, and are short enough that you can still get to the eggplant. put your pole beans on the north side of the garden on their trellis', and plant perennial herbs like rosemary, sage, and savory in front of and behind the trellis. The beans brow up in the middle of fragrance heaven and the nasty critters hate it! (and so do the deer!! HA!! ) But the benificials love it! Just make sure you leave a patch in the middle wide enough for your seedlings to get started and remind them that the rosemary is NOT their home!....and if you can't do the perm planting of perennials.....put nasturtiums at the base of your pole beans. They are pretty, scare away the buggies (for the most part), will give you the indication when the beanies are getting a little dry (they wilt before the beans do), and BONUS!!! are also EDIBLE! (and look really pretty in the salad!!
Horseradish is a great crop, easy to grow, but very perminant....once planted, never gotten rid of....but the buggies hate it so whatever you plant in amongst it is pretty safe. I also plant individual garlic buds around everything. Makes havesting the garlid a little difficult, but there are a LOT of buggies that won't go near it!! Only real problem is it needs to be harvested before the end of the bug season, so.....use it to fend off the buggies from the stuff you are going to pull up to prepare for your fall/cold crop....(squash, peas, melons etc....they tend to die out about the right time) And to keep away the squash beetles, plant a late planting of radishes. They'll get big, they might get bitter, but they save your squash! (and they take up the dirt without robbing the roots! See "weeds" in this massive missive)
Always grow your hot peppers at least 10 feet away from your sweet peppers, and never plant the peppers in the same place two years in a row. This cuts down the likelyhood of nemutodes and root damping, and the spacing makes the seed collection less likely to generate a hot and spicy green pepper! Cross pollination is NOT fun when it hits you by surprise. Don't grow hot peppers?? You'll want this one. It's called a "Peter" pepper, (you'll find out why when it grows....)and you can get seeds for it at totally tomatoes or johnny's seeds, and while I won't cook with it....it's really hot....it makes a great "insecticide"
See....bugs identify their food source, and therefore which of your lovely plants they are going to destroy, by scent. Grow these peppers, hang them to dry out after harvest, and then grind up the shell, seeds etc to a powder (I just use a really high power blender and then wash it REALLY well). Handle them carefully. I was stringing them to dry, the thread broke, and stupid me....I just automatically licked the end to re-thread the needle. Burned for two days!!......but...that's another story....
Put the powder in a cloth sack and steep in boiling water. When cool, remove the powder and sack (with tongs to the garbage, otherwise your fingers will be deadly weapons to your eyes and nose)....and pour water into a spray bottle. Spray on plants. Mostly on leaves... Make sure there is no wind to put it back in your eyes or nose....it hurts!!
It doesn't stay on the veggies because of their waxy skin, but it soaks into the flowers and leaves. I've never had it alter the flavor of the "greens"....but I usually don't spray them for about 3-4 days before picking.... It doesn't deter the bees or other benificials for pollinatingor protection, because......they aren't there to eat the plant anyway.....and most importantly...doesn't KILL them....(or genetically mutate them....we have whole hives with no wings thanks to insecticide....but that's another story too.....).......but it confuses the heck out of potato bugs, aphids, armoured beetles, japanese beetles, slugs, cutworms, cabbage moths, centipedes.......and possums!!! (hehehe)......etc.....
If you aren't allergic to bees and things...plant lance leaf coreopsis around the outside of your garden...it attracts wasps (and praying mantice... and they love the nasty little critters too.....crunch!!
The idea of companion gardening is to use the "friends" to scare away the enemies...it also has a second advantage. Close planting, less exposed dirt, contained watering area, fewer weeds!! Less work, fewer bugs, better veggies and.....no insecticide!!
Oh...and by the way....NOTHING is friendly to the potato, and nothing considers it a friend. I plant mine in the compost heap, dump grass clippings, coffee grounds, and egg shells all over it, and when I do the final turning in the fall, am always surprised to find new "treasure". I usually miss a few, so when I do my first turn in the late spring...I get a surprise then. And if the buggies are really bad....I don't get anything, but since I've usually forgotten them...and they are just growing from peelings anyway.....I don't really noice......

Lots of answers are also available on GardenWeb's forums. Everything from this, to composting, to keeping away the gophers!! Give them a try!!