what is the strongest 90 degree wooden corner joint?

Question

I'm Designing a peice of furniture and have reached a problem with its structure. I need some advice by some one with knowledge of matterial strengths to advise me on joining two sheets of material. Can any one help?

I will be more specific then. I'm trying to join two sheets of 18mm thick poplar plywood board together at 90 degrees. it needs to be mega strong but not be any thicker than the 18mm. I thought of dovetail joints but i can add components to make it stronger. additional components could be used.

Answer 1

Dovetail is fine but mortise and tennon is also very strong see below forsome idea's

http://www.orinda.k12.ca.us/OIS/IT/wood-joints.htm

Answer 2

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Answer 3

Strongest Wood Joints

Answer 4

There are many solutions to this Q. The key considerations are
* Ensure that the mating surfaces are cut (or machined) accurately to make as much use of the frictional forces of the material itself.

* Ensure the mating surfaces are clean and free of dust.


To further reinforce the joint, consider using a proprietary wood adhesive

In terms of adding components, some form of screwed-on L-shaped angle bracket to the outer 90 angle and same for inner angle. You could of course just use plastic conti-blocks for this purpose.

If your design permits, pin a sheet of hardboard across the back of the angle (like say a drawer bottom panel). This makes the joint "very" strong

If you use adhesive or bracketry, it is advisable to firmly clamp the components together and in the desired position before final fix.

Answer 5

strongest 90 degree wooden corner joint

Answer 6

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Answer 7

The strength of two pieces of 18mm plywood can only really be the combination of two things, the mechanical fitment of the two pieces of wood, ie in ure case the dovetail joints (One of the very strongest of wood joints) and a good polyurethene wood glue, such as Gorilla glue, this would make the joint as strong as possible with a dovetailed joint.If you are not prepared to go the dovetail route then i would recommend using Pocket Hole fixings (Kreg jigs/systems are the best) the concealment of the screws and their pulling force and the use of a good wood glue would probably make the overall joint as near to a dovetail joint in strength. hope this helps

Answer 8

Someone mentioned a compound miter saw but those are usually for wood. For metal, they are called "chop saws" and have a large (16" = 40 cm or so) abrasive blade. Some have blades that can be angled. On others, you position the pipe and clamp it down at a 45. Any welding shop would do it for you for a few dollars. Or better yet, sign up for a metal-working class at your local junior college, then you get to use all their cool and big tools for just the $100 class fee. The best jig for doing it by hand would be to drill a 4 cm hole through a block of wood and intersect that hole with 45 degree cut into the wood. Use the cut to position your hacksaw blade and the hole to position and support the pipe. Bending with "hickie" is doable by hand for thin-walled tubing in 2 and 3 cm sizes. 4cm and you need a big handle and good vise. Perhaps you can use a pipe fitting (a 90 degree "ell" to secure two pieces of pipe, cut square, at a 90 degree angle. Or you could drill 4 cm holes into a block of wood, aluminum or steel and secure square-cut pipe with screws through the block. Note that SS "work hardens" which means the more you work it, the harder it gets. It makes cutting with blades and drills much harder than in other metals. Too fast or too slow just makes it worse. (Abrasive cutting works fine).

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Answer 9

You can always put brads into the top and bottom of the dovetail joint to make it a little stronger ('top' and 'bottom' from the point-of-view of looking down on the 90 degree angle).

You can put brads into the middle part of the joint at a steep angle

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Answer 10

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Answer 11

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